Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans Premier Cru 2007
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3.98 hectares across two parcels that extend from top to bottom of the climat, taking advantage of all the characteristics of Champans southeastern exposure and location in the heart of Volnay's premiers crus. The soil is redder, poor, and rests on a rocky calcareous bench at the top of the hill and more stone and deeper soil as the slope decreases down the hill.
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Wine Spectator
A refined red that mixes elegance and density, with raspberry, floral, licorice and mineral flavors. There's a core of concentrated fruit, all harmonious with the structure and texture.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2007 Volnay 1er Cru Champans, which was tasted from an ex-cellar magnum, has an expressive bouquet that is perhaps just a little more advanced than I was anticipating. Yet it is undeniably elegant and poised with a lovely scent of oyster shell that suffuses the red berry fruit, then later, a hint of black truffle. The palate is surfeit with vibrant red berry fruit that has a pastille-like purity, subtle blood orange and dried orange zest notes lining what feels like a powerful finish that fans out with confidence. Is this a Volnay Champans intent upon giving its all in the flush of youth?
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Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
On the hillsides between Pommard and Meursault, Volnay is one of two villages in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy that is recognized for its extraordinary Pinot Noir. Pommard is the other; the rest of the villages are most known for some of the most exceptional Chardonnay in the world. While Volnay Pinot Noir tends to be light in color and more delicate than that of Pommard, they typically stand on par with each other in regards to quality and demand.
Volnay can’t claim any Grands Crus vineyards but more than half of it has achieved Premier Cru status. Volnay Premiers Crus vineyards stretch across the entire village from northeast to southwest, abutting and actually falling “into” Meursault. Where they merge is a vineyard called Les Santenots. Pinot Noir grows in this Meursault Premier Cru but since that village is most associated with stellar whites, the Pinot Noir from Les Santenots, takes the name Volnay Santenots. Immediately above it are Volnay’s other prized Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Champans, Clos des Chênes and Le Cailleret.
Volnay Pinot Noir are earthy with red or blue fruit. Aromas such as smoke, herbs, forest, cocoa and spice are common and on the palate they are gorgeous and concentrated with finesse but won’t truly charm you without some age.