Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot Clos du Prieure Monopole Rouge 2016
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
he 2016 Vougeot 1er Cru le Clos du Prieure, a monopole of the domaine, includes 100% whole bunch fruit (apparently, there is a problem with the ducks from the nearby pond that eat the fruit). That is cunningly disguised on the nose that offers lovely redcurrant and cranberry fruit, with fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, juicy in the mouth with good matière toward the tender finish. This comes recommended for humans—et canards!
Barrel Sample: 89-91
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Le Domaine de la Vougeraie was founded in 1999, uniting under a single signature the 91 acres of vineyards owned by the Boisset family. Our vineyards are in 30 different appellations in the Côte d'Or, with two-thirds in the Côte de Nuits and one-third in the Côte de Beaune. Our first vineyard, purchased by Jean-Claude and Claudine Boisset in 1964, is the single vineyard Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Evocelles", and our latest jewel, the Vougeot Premier Cru "Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot" Monopole is part of our 24 acres in the Vougeot appellation. Pierre Vincent, our winemaker, focuses on the pure expression of Burgundian terroir using organic farming and biodynamics, respecting the environment and making truly unique wines. We are proud to announce that 100% of our vineyards are certified organic by Ecocert since the 2007 harvest.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Containing the largest Grand Cru in all of the Côte d’Or, Vougeot, the village, takes its name from the small stream flowing through it, called Vouge. Over three quarters of the village retains Grand Cru status, and a single vineyard at that: Clos de Vougeot (or simply, Clos Vougeot). Its mass—over 50 ha—retains the single name chiefly for historic reasons.
But today, Clos de Vougeot contains over 80 owners and shows significant soil and slope variations within its boundaries. The top, bordering Musigny and Grands Echezeaux, is calcareous and gravelly on oolitic limestone and exhibits wonderful drainage. The middle sections are limestone, gravel and clay with less of a slope. The lower part has little slant and is mostly made of clay. Historically the diverse parcels were blended but today the abundance of owners means that everyone has his own style. Exploring and understanding them is part of the allure of Clos de Vougeot.
In general a fine Clos de Vougeot when young will be dense and dark but juicy, with a pronounced austerity, and needs a good ten years to bring it to its full potential.