Domaine Bruno Clavelier Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveaux Premier Cru Vieilles Vignes 2014
Critical AcclaimAll Vintages
Intense and unyielding, with cherry, blackberry, violet, smoke and mineral flavors yielding to dense yet ripe tannins on the finish. Nicely proportioned and lively, offering a long aftertaste.
This is also ultra-floral in character with its highly complex and airy nose that includes notes of spicy red currant and pomegranate. There is terrific richness to the more mineral-driven and caressing middle weight flavors that deliver outstanding balance, depth and persistence on the chiseled and explosive finale. In contrast to the Noirots this is very Chambolle in basic character and should age beautifully well. Rating: 92-94
The 2014 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Combe d'Orveaux was just a little reduced on the nose when we met at the domaine. Like the Noirots, this is holding something back. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit; there is mouth-sapping salinity here and it is delineated with good tension, gently building towards a lightly grippy finish. Once the aromatics awaken, this will be a lovely Chambolle Musigny, even if it is a bit of a broody bugger out of barrel. Rating: 90-92
Chambolle-Musigny represents the charm of the Côte de Nuits district of Burgundy. But you’ll find that term mainly in reference to the vineyards in its southern stretches, which border Clos Vougeot: the Grand Cru of Le Musingy and in part, its neighboring and most exceptional Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses. Some producers argue for the primacy of Les Amoureuses and its eligibility for Grand Cru status given its wines can sometimes surpass other Grands Crus.
Le Musigny ranks on par with the most acclaimed Grands Crus for Pinot Noir: Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, Chambertin, and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. It is also the only Grand Cru in Côte de Nuits for Chardonnay. All of the others are in Côte de Beaune.
This village can in fact claim only two Grands Crus vineyards and—in the context of breaking down the minutiae—they are markedly different. Bonnes-Mares, the other one at the far northern end above the village, bordering Morey-St-Denis, offers power, strength and great aging potential. But Chambolle-Musigny includes a nice handful of exceptional Premiers Crus, as noted above with Les Amoureuses as the finest. Le Fuees and Les Cras are other noteworthy Premiers Crus.
Overall, a top Chambolle-Musigny offers pure aromas of violets, dark cherry and damp earth, coupled with a velvety elegance, supple mid-palate, an abundance of black and red berry, and finesse and power through a long and fine-grained finish.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”