Domaine Bellegarde Moelleux Cuvee Thibault 2004

While I am cheating since its price of $25 applies to a 500 ml. bottle, I did not want to miss this opportunity to report on Bellegarde’s 100% old vines Petit Manseng 2004 Jurancon Cuvee Thibault because if you want to discover the genuine mysteries of Jurancon, here is the real deal! The concentration and sweetness of this wine (like most of its genre) originated in spontaneous desiccation of lateharvested fruit, not in botrytis. Musky, floral, candied citrus rind, and indelicate butcher shop aromas guarantee you will do a double take over a glass of this elixir (whether or not you proceed!). A veritable explosion of citrus zest, honey and flowers in the mouth continues to be accompanied by musky, carnal notes that make you wonder how they can come from grapes. The long, haunting finish is only subtly sweet, since somehow a mere 5.6 grams acidity has rendered 180 grams of residual sugar practically irrelevant. Such are the mysteries of this ultimate foie gras wine, which however will be found remarkably versatile by those who keep a bottle on hand. It will remain fresh for at least a week in your refrigerator and evolve fascinatingly in bottle for at least a dozen years.