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Dom. Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny Combe d'Orveau Premier Cru 2014

Pinot Noir from Chambolle-Musigny, Cote de Nuits, Cote d'Or, Burgundy, France
  • D95
  • RP93
  • WS92
  • BH91
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Winemaker Notes

Critical Acclaim

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D 95
Decanter
Romain, ably assisted by his sister Virginie, is the seventh-generation winemaker of the Taupenot family. The estate, run on organic principles since 2002, is one of the most up and coming in the Côte de Nuits. Romain is very approachable and his intelligent, thoughtful approach has won much respect. He has transformed the family estate in recent years with a perfectionist approach as well as a desire to let the terroir speak in all of the wines. Oak is carefully used – usually no more than 40% new wood for premier cru, 25% for village wines. The emphasis is on purity rather than power. Jason Haynes: Evolved bouquet with fresh raspberry and orange rind, the prelude to quite a savoury wine. Interesting, attractive, a divine mouthful. William Kelley: A firm, intriguing nose which translates to a flavourful attack in the mouth. This finishes with great energy, and will certainly still pack a punch in years to come. Jasper Morris MW: What a beautifully perfumed nose! There are pure raspberry notes and generous swelling fruit across the palate. The oak is well integrated and the fruit returns again at the back. Very classy.
RP 93
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Combe d'Orveau from Taupenot-Merme has a more understated bouquet than Groffier's 2014 Les Haut Doix, perhaps more Morey-Saint-Denis in style, yet it is nicely focused and fresh and delivers ample mineralité. The palate is very well balanced with good substance, sappy black fruit laced with spice and a very dense but poised finish that feels primal and backwards now but will hopefully age with style. This surpasses my estimation from barrel, hence the higher score. Tasted September 2017.
WS 92
Wine Spectator
This is succulent, exhibiting currant, raspberry, vegetal and spice flavors. Fresh and complex, with dusty tannins dominating the firm, slightly chewy finish. Best from 2021 through 2035. 14 cases imported.
BH 91
Burghound.com
There is hint of reduction but it probably will not persist as aggressive swirling reveals a cool and pure nose that offers up distinctly floral scents on the high-toned aromas of red cherry, pomegranate and violet scents. I very much like the intensity of the mineral-driven middle weight flavors that possess excellent delineation and underlying tension, all wrapped in a clean, energetic and refined finale. Lovely.
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Dom. Taupenot-Merme

Domaine Taupenot-Merme

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Domaine Taupenot-Merme, France - Other regions
Located in the village of Morey St Denis, Domaine Taupenot-Merme was created in 1963 from the marriage of Jean Taupenot and Denise Merme. It is now run by the brother and sister team of Romain and Virginie Taupenot. For many years, two different estates operated simultaneously, one in Morey St Denis and one in St Romain. These were then merged when Romain took over in 1998. Romain likes to fly under the radar–a soft-spoken man with a gentle demeanor and an outstanding knowledge of the region who makes classic wines of purity and finesse. The Domaine is spread quite widely throughout the Cote, boasting 13 hectares of vines over 20 appellations, striking a good balance between Grand Cru, Premiers Cru and Village wines. Each of the domaine’s wines speak to a sense of place, illustrating typicity punctuated with a signature of impressive aromatics, chiseled tannins and silky texture. Romain moved from lutte raisonnee to organic viticulture in 2001, with a winemaking approach which is very hands-off. He talks of infusion not extraction, with fermentation occurring naturally with indigenous yeasts before the grapes go into the pneumatic press. The elevage is also simple, with Romain employing mostly two tonneliers–Francois and Mercurey. Ageing is between 12 to 14 months on fine lees and no racking, with Grand Cru wines seeing 40% new oak, 30% for 1er Crus and about 20% for Village wines. Wines are then transferred to stainless steel tanks for 3 month prior to bottling, with neither fining nor filtration.
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Chambolle-Musigny

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Chambolle-Musigny represents the charm of the Côte de Nuits district of Burgundy. But you’ll find that term mainly in reference to the vineyards in its southern stretches, which border Clos Vougeot: the Grand Cru of Le Musingy and in part, its neighboring and most exceptional Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses. Some producers argue for the primacy of Les Amoureuses and its eligibility for Grand Cru status given its wines can sometimes surpass other Grands Crus.

Le Musigny ranks on par with the most acclaimed Grands Crus for Pinot noir: Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, Chambertin, and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. It is also the only Grand Cru in Côte de Nuits for Chardonnay. All of the others are in Côte de Beaune.

This village can in fact claim only two Grands Crus vineyards and—in the context of breaking down the minutiae—they are markedly different. Bonnes-Mares, the other one at the far northern end above the village, bordering Morey-St-Denis, offers power, strength and great aging potential. But Chambolle-Musigny includes a nice handful of exceptional Premiers Crus, as noted above with Les Amoureuses as the finest. Le Fuees and Les Cras are other noteworthy Premiers Crus.

Overall, a top Chambolle-Musigny offers pure aromas of violets, dark cherry and damp earth, coupled with a velvety elegance, supple mid-palate, an abundance of black and red berry, and finesse and power through a long and fine-grained finish.

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Pinot Noir

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One of the most finicky yet rewarding grapes to grow, Pinot Noir is a labor of love for many. However, the greatest red wines of Burgundy prove that it is unquestionably worth the effort. In fact, it is the only red variety permitted in Burgundy. Highly reflective of its terroir, Pinot Noir prefers calcareous soils and a cool climate, requires low yields to achieve high quality and demands a lot of attention in the vineyard and winery. It retains even more glory as an important component of Champagne as well as on its own in France’s Loire Valley and Alsace regions. This sensational grape enjoys immense international success, most notably growing in Oregon, California and New Zealand with smaller amounts in Chile, Germany (as Spätburgunder) and Italy (as Pinot Nero).

In the Glass

Pinot Noir is all about red fruit—strawberry, raspberry and cherry with some heftier styles delving into the red or purple plum and in the other direction, red or orange citrus. It is relatively pale in color with soft tannins and a lively acidity. With age (of which the best examples can handle an astounding amount) it can develop hauntingly alluring characteristics of fresh earth, savory spice, dried fruit and truffles.

Perfect Pairings

Pinot’s healthy acidity cuts through the oiliness of pink-fleshed fish like salmon and tuna but its mild mannered tannins give it enough structure to pair with all sorts of poultry: chicken, quail and especially duck. As the namesake wine of Boeuf Bourguignon, Pinot noir has proven it isn’t afraid of beef. California examples work splendidly well with barbecue and Pinot Noir is also vegetarian-friendly—most notably with any dish that features mushrooms.

Sommelier Secret

For administrative purposes, the region of Beaujolais is often included in Burgundy. But it is extremely different in terms of topography, soil and climate, and the important red grape here is ultimately Gamay, not Pinot noir. Truth be told, there is a tiny amount of Gamay sprinkled around the outlying parts of Burgundy (mainly in Maconnais) but it isn’t allowed with any great significance and certainly not in any Village or Cru level wines. So "red Burgundy" still necessarily refers to Pinot noir.

MARTAUPCMCO14_2014 Item# 512937