Denner The Dirt Worshipper 2017
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Wine Enthusiast
Mostly Syrah cofermented with 2% Roussanne and 1% Viognier, this is a lush expression that starts with aromas of black cherry, fudge and caramel, but is balanced by fresh violet and cracked pepper. Firm but forgiving tannins and persistent acidity deliver flavors of mocha, cappuccino and black cherry on the palate.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Dirt Worshipper is a blend of 97% Syrah, 2% Roussanne and 1% Viognier, all co-fermented. Deep ruby-purple, it offers pure, layered aromas of cassis, Morello cherries and warm blackberries with accents of violets, dried lavender, coffee beans and milk chocolate, continuing to reveal new scents as it sits in the glass. The full-bodied palate is intense but never heavy, perfumed and layered, with finely detailed tannins and seamless freshness, finishing very long. What an elegant expression of Syrah!
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The Somm Journal
Comprised of grapes from the Denner estate along with fruit grown in SLO County’s Edna Valley and the Santa Ynez Valley to the south, this blend of 97% Syrah, 2% Roussanne, and 1% Viognier is the winery’s ode to Côte-Rôtie. It’s a big, black-peppered powerhouse of tar, slate, anise, and cigar leaf, with olive tapenade adding to its stemmy and savory magnitude.
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Wine Spectator
Tightly focused, with a lively core of tannins and acidity framed by multilayered blueberry, river stone and white pepper flavors, building tension toward well-buffed tannins. Syrah, Roussanne and Viognier. Best from 2021 through 2030.
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The 108 acres under vine are comprised of 19 different varieties in 26 unique blocks. Each block is farmed with painstaking attention to detail, allowing only for the best possible grapes to reach the winery. Aron Nevarez, the vineyard manager, is committed to environmentally friendly farming practices, using only sustainable inputs and minimal irrigation.
With bold fruit flavors and accents of sweet spice, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre form the base of the classic Rhône Red Blend, while Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise often come in to play. Though they originated from France’s southern Rhône Valley, with some creative interpretation, Rhône blends have also become popular in other countries. Somm Secret—Putting their own local spin on the Rhône Red Blend, those from Priorat often include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In California, it is not uncommon to see Petite Sirah make an appearance.
Paso Robles has made a name for itself as a source of supple, powerful, fruit-driven Central Coast wines. But with eleven smaller sub-AVAs, there is actually quite a bit of diversity to be found in this inland portion of California’s Central Coast.
Just east over the Santa Lucia Mountains from the chilly Pacific Ocean, lie the coolest in the region: Adelaida, Templeton Gap and (Paso Robles) Willow Creek Districts, as well as York Mountain AVA and Santa Margarita Ranch. These all experience more ocean fog, wind and precipitation compared to the rest of the Paso sub-appellations. The San Miguel, (Paso Robles) Estrella, (Paso Robles) Geneso, (Paso Robles) Highlands, El Pomar and Creston Districts, along with San Juan Creek, are the hotter, more western appellations of the greater Paso Robles AVA.
This is mostly red wine country, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel standing out as the star performers. Other popular varieties include Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Grenache and Rhône blends, both red and white. There is a fairly uniform tendency here towards wines that are unapologetically bold and opulently fruit-driven, albeit with a surprising amount of acidity thanks to the region’s chilly nighttime temperatures.