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Casa E. di Mirafiore Dolcetto d'Alba 2009
Mirafiore wines give expression to a vision, to a precise point of view promoting for some time by Fontanafredda's Bio-nature Reserve: eco-compatibility, the green philosophy. Meaning respect for the environment and the health of the end consumer. Ecological awareness is imprinted first and foremost on the work in the vineyards, where chemical fertilizers and weed-killers are banned, and pest treatments are substantially reduced in order to produce clean grapes with chemical residues approaching zero. The next step takes place in the winery, through a drastic reduction in the use of sulphites compared to legally-permitted limits, and preference given to native yeasts rather than industrial strains. Finally, rounding off the two previous phases, the packaging is composed of 85% recycled glass and labels produced using natural inks. And this is where the seeming contrast between old and new returns, where the new (the container) encloses the old (the contents), which is in turn old itself (traditional) precisely because it is new (clean and fair). Mirafiore wines: Pure expression of seeming contrasts.
Beloved for flavorful red wines, Alba is an epicurean’s dream. The historic walled town at its heart is where growers from throughout the Piedmont region would once go to sell their produce to winemakers and négociants following the harvest, but today it is better recognized as one of Italy’s premiere culinary destinations. Sandwiched between Barolo and Barbaresco, the best vineyards, located atop sunny, south-facing hills, are planted with Nebbiolo. A popular entry-level alternative to its pricier neighbors, Nebbiolo d’Alba is softer and less tannic, ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling.
Dolcetto, one of Piedmont’s more easygoing varieties, is commonly grown here, known as Dolecetto d'Alba, and can often be found casually served in carafes on the tables of Alba’s oseterias and trattorias. These light and smooth wines are meant to be drunk young and with gusto while the region’s more serious wines age. Barbera is planted here as well, and takes on a more powerful, structured personality than that of its counterparts in Asti.
An easy-drinker with modest acidity and soft fruity flavors, Dolcetto is often enjoyed in its native Piedmont while more serious Barolos and Barbarescos take their time to age. Here, this is the wine you are most likely to find at the dinner table on a casual Tuesday night. In recent years Dolcetto has found some footing in California, but plantings are fairly limited outside of Italy.
In the Glass
Dolcetto translates to “little sweet one,” and though the wines produced are typically not sweet in terms of residual sugar, they do possess delightfully fruity flavors of red cherry and blueberry, with an almond-like bitterness at the end and occasional hints of chocolate and licorice. While Dolcetto can be tannic, it is relatively low in acidity.
Dolcetto is a lively, exuberant variety without much complexity, and as such is best paired with simple, flavorsome foods such as pasta, pizza, and grilled meats—anything an Italian farmer might consume after a long day in the fields.
In most of Piedmont, easy-ripening Dolcetto is relegated to the less ideal vineyard locations, which are reserved for more finicky Nebbiolo and Barbera. However, in the Dogliani zone it is the star of the show, and here it makes a bigger, riper, and often more serious style of wine.