Bouchard Pere & Fils Volnay Clos des Chenes Premier Cru 1999
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Jeb
Dunnuck
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 1999 Volnay Clos des Chênes is an outstanding Volnay that’s drinking nicely today. It offers a relatively tight, earthy style in its dark fruits, forest floor, earth, and baking spice-driven aromas and flavors, and this style carries over to the palate where it has good density, a more backward, reserved style, but good length and balance. The tannins might outlive the fruit when all is said and done, but there’s no denying the character and class here. It has another 10-15 years of life ahead of it.
Established in 1731, Bouchard Père & Fils is one of the oldest and most diverse Estate in Burgundy with approximately 130 ha (320 acres) of vineyards, the majority of which are Premiers and Grands Crus. Highly sought after, their wines benefit from optimal ageing conditions in the underground cellars of the Château de Beaune, the former 15th century royal fortress that the Domaine has occupied since 1820. Bouchard Père & Fils doesn't make wines; they bring them into existence. Cultivation and vinification, on a plot-by-plot basis, are a form of craftmanship that they pride themselves on which has led to the utmost respect for their terroirs. Bouchard Père & Fils obtained the highest level of sustainable agricultural certification (HVE3) in 2015, being the first in the Côte d'Or to do so.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
On the hillsides between Pommard and Meursault, Volnay is one of two villages in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy that is recognized for its extraordinary Pinot Noir. Pommard is the other; the rest of the villages are most known for some of the most exceptional Chardonnay in the world. While Volnay Pinot Noir tends to be light in color and more delicate than that of Pommard, they typically stand on par with each other in regards to quality and demand.
Volnay can’t claim any Grands Crus vineyards but more than half of it has achieved Premier Cru status. Volnay Premiers Crus vineyards stretch across the entire village from northeast to southwest, abutting and actually falling “into” Meursault. Where they merge is a vineyard called Les Santenots. Pinot Noir grows in this Meursault Premier Cru but since that village is most associated with stellar whites, the Pinot Noir from Les Santenots, takes the name Volnay Santenots. Immediately above it are Volnay’s other prized Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Champans, Clos des Chênes and Le Cailleret.
Volnay Pinot Noir are earthy with red or blue fruit. Aromas such as smoke, herbs, forest, cocoa and spice are common and on the palate they are gorgeous and concentrated with finesse but won’t truly charm you without some age.