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Boroli Dolcetto d'Alba Madonna Di Como 2001
In the 1990’s, Silavano and Elena Boroli felt the need to extend their interest and endeavors. They wanted something that would bring them closer to nature and away from the demands of the contemporary business world. As Piedmontese, the choice was almost an obligation: making wine in Langa.
In 2000 Achille, the third of the four Boroli sons entered the family wine business. The farm director is the oenologist Enzo Alluvione, assisted by his son Daniele for the vineyards and by Achille Boroli for the marketing and selling. The farm consultant is the oenologist Beppe Caviola. The vines grown are Nebbiolo, Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Dolcetto, White Moscato and Chardonnay. The farm rests atop the ‘Madonna di Como’ hill, 5 kilometres from the center of Alba. The history of this magical place is interesting: the Celts who inhabited the area since the 4th century AD worshipped amongst others ‘Como’, the god of feasts; the Romans arrived during the first century AD and the name ‘Como’ came to mean a procession of young dancers in honor of the wine god Bacchus.
Beloved for flavorful red wines, Alba is an epicurean’s dream. The historic walled town at its heart is where growers from throughout the Piedmont region would once go to sell their produce to winemakers and négociants following the harvest, but today it is better recognized as one of Italy’s premiere culinary destinations. Sandwiched between Barolo and Barbaresco, the best vineyards, located atop sunny, south-facing hills, are planted with Nebbiolo. A popular entry-level alternative to its pricier neighbors, Nebbiolo d’Alba is softer and less tannic, ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling.
Dolcetto, one of Piedmont’s more easygoing varieties, is commonly grown here, known as Dolecetto d'Alba, and can often be found casually served in carafes on the tables of Alba’s oseterias and trattorias. These light and smooth wines are meant to be drunk young and with gusto while the region’s more serious wines age. Barbera is planted here as well, and takes on a more powerful, structured personality than that of its counterparts in Asti.
An easy-drinker with modest acidity and soft fruity flavors, Dolcetto is often enjoyed in its native Piedmont while more serious Barolos and Barbarescos take their time to age. Here, this is the wine you are most likely to find at the dinner table on a casual Tuesday night. In recent years Dolcetto has found some footing in California, but plantings are fairly limited outside of Italy.
In the Glass
Dolcetto translates to “little sweet one,” and though the wines produced are typically not sweet in terms of residual sugar, they do possess delightfully fruity flavors of red cherry and blueberry, with an almond-like bitterness at the end and occasional hints of chocolate and licorice. While Dolcetto can be tannic, it is relatively low in acidity.
Dolcetto is a lively, exuberant variety without much complexity, and as such is best paired with simple, flavorsome foods such as pasta, pizza, and grilled meats—anything an Italian farmer might consume after a long day in the fields.
In most of Piedmont, easy-ripening Dolcetto is relegated to the less ideal vineyard locations, which are reserved for more finicky Nebbiolo and Barbera. However, in the Dogliani zone it is the star of the show, and here it makes a bigger, riper, and often more serious style of wine.