Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2015

Underbrush and baked plum aromas mingle with whiffs of new leather and camphor. It's medium in weight and well structured, delivering dried black cherry, licorice and tobacco set against taut, fine-grained tannins.

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Pian delle Vigne was tasted (after a double decant) among the other wines from the Chianti Classico appellation made by Marchesi Antinori. That's a change because I usually taste this wine in a peer group of fellow Brunelli. You'd be forgiven for forgetting how different Sangiovese from these two geographically close (but philosophically distant) wine regions ultimately tastes. This expression from the warm 2015 vintage is loosely knit and less fine-tuned. It offers a broad-brush interpretation of the grape, with textured blackberry, spice, tar and earthy aromas. There is a touch of heat or extra ripeness in this wine that tends to flatten out the more nuanced details of the grape.

A lean, savory version, whose cherry, iron, tobacco and underbrush flavors play into the dusty tannins, pushing the fruit to the background. The aromas are the best feature. This doesn't offer the fruit of the best in the vintage, but is solid.