Sine Qua Non Kolibri 2008
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Parker
Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2008 Kolibri continues the brilliant success Krankl has had with dry whites. As one can see when visiting his cellars, he is now using the fashionable concrete eggs as part of the white wines- upbringing. About 25% new French oak is used, and the balance is older barrels. Most of the fruit is from estate vineyards, with about 18% purchased from the Bien Nacido Vineyard. The final blend is 69% Roussanne and 31% Viognier. As is found in all Krankl's whites, the 2008 Kolibri possesses extraordinary aromatics. Abundant notes of marmalade, honeysuckle, white flowers, and candied citrus are accompanied by good acidity, beautiful intensity and purity, and a layered, fresh, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel. The wine is intense, but never heavy or overbearing. It is impossible to estimate which vintages will age well. I recently had the 2001 Albino and 2002 Lil- E and both were still brilliant. Other whites seem to go through a more funky stage from which they are unlikely to rebound. Consequently, as good as they are, I tend to drink them during their first several years of life.
Sine Qua Non has its own winemaking facility in Ventura, California not far from the Santa Barbara vineyards where the fruit is sourced from. In the last few years Manfred and his wife, Elaine, have begun creating their own vineyards dedicated to Rhone varietals. Their winemaking philosophy is to work in very small batches, gravity flow, natural yeasts (unless a fermentation problem is anticipated), long lees aging for the whites and repeated racking for the reds to open them up. This is a modified explanation of a very dedicated and artistic approach to winemaking. The wines are simultaneously very rich and elegant, superbly balanced and thoroughly harmonious with food, never overwhelming.