Simon Bize et Fils Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Vergelesses Premier Cru 2005
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From above the eponymous Pernand cru, Bize’s 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Vergelesses suggests black cherry, blackberry, beet root, and high-toned distillates of black fruit on the nose. With a palate concentration approaching bitterness, this saturates the palate with black fruits, fruit pits, brown spices, beef marrow, and distinctly salty and chalky mineral suggestions. The tannins are quite refined. (And by the way, only 15% new barrels were employed.) Finishing with continued clarity and brightness as well as real grip, it makes a superb case for the inherent complexity of Savigny’s top sites. I would revisit this quintessentially darkly-hued, concentrated 2005 in only three or four years but expect it to evolve interestingly for a dozen.
Patrick took over the vineyard in 1988, after his father, also called Simon, formally retired. The quality of his work is quite clear from both his attitude and his vineyards. He insists on knowing the characteristics of each of his vineyards. This allows him to be flexible in his treatments for pests and diseases and in pruning and training the vines. These practices help to keep the vines healthy and keep the yeilds down to 25-40 hl/ha for the red wines and 40 -50 hl/ha for the white wines
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
Savigny-lès-Beaune is a small village near Beaune that produces delightful red and white wines under its own appellation name. Cut by a river, the vineyards on its southern side have sandy soils that result in charming, floral reds. Premiers Crus vineyards on this side include Les Peuillets, Les Narbantons, Les Rouvrettes and Les Marconnets.
On Savigny’s northern side, bordering Pernand-Vergelles, vineyards are planted on rocky soils and produce juicy and spicy Pinot Noir. The village’s best whites, all made of Chardonnay, are full on the palate and abound in texture, complexity and freshness.