Quinta da Muradella Gorvia Blanco 2012
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Wine &
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Robert
Parker
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Wine & Spirits
In the heat of Monterrei, one of the hottest wine regions in Spain, dona blanca traditionally has been used for orujo (the local grappa) rather than fine wine. José Luis Mateo farms dona blanca at Gorvia, an organic vineyard planted in 1987, high up in the hills near the border with Portugal. The altitude (1,380 feet) sustains freshness in the grapes, allowing Mateo to create an herbal white with a ginger-like spice and remarkably delicate structure. Notable for its firm build, its finesse and length of flavor, this is a beauty from the inland hills of Galicia.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Despite what many might think, 2012 was cooler in Monterrei than 2011. The 2012 Gorvia Blanco is a varietal Dona Blanca from a single plot of vineyards planted some 26 years ago. But it's distinctly riper than 2013 or 2014. The vineyard is on a slope close to the Monterrei Castle on slate soils and it's the warmest of all the vineyards worked by Quinta da Muradella. It fermented part in stainless steel and part in an oval oak foudre with some uncrushed grapes, where it matured for some nine months before being blended and given an additional year in stainless steel - before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It's a balanced vintage, with riper aromas of yellow plums and plenty of pollen and beeswax aromas. I also tasted a bottle of the 2008, a cool vintage that proprietor Jose Luis Mateo had kept to follow up on the evolution of Dona Blanca; it is a grape that is thought to be neutral and destined for early-consumption wines. Not at all! At least in the able hands of Mateo and the mineral slate soils where the vines are planted. The nose is exuberant full of chamomile and pollen aromas beautifully perfumed. Despite being the warmest of all the vineyards, the wine is surprisingly fresh, with very tasty flavors and a supple, umami-driven finish. The acidity will become more integrated with time in bottle, as I've seen in the 2008.
Other Vintages
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Robert
Parker
White grapes are used in two famous types of Spanish wine, Sherry and Cava, but we will limit this discussion to still whites. Let’s begin with perhaps the best known and most highly regarded internationally, Albariño . Produced in the region of Rías Baixas, just above Portugal in northwestern Spain, Albariño typically sees no or little oak and is medium to medium-plus in body. Aroma and flavor notes often include citrus and peach, often with subtle floral notes and a suggestion of sea spray, giving the wine a zesty feel. Often bottled as a single varietal, Albariño is sometimes blended with other indigenous grapes like Loureira and Treixadura. Try one of these Spanish whites from Forjas del Salnes.
Let’s look at a few other Spanish white wines. Godello also hails from northwestern Spain and presents a profile of grapefruit, minerality and a slight smoky quality. Enjoy a bottle from Bodegas Avancia. The region of Rueda, northwest of Madrid, is home to Verdejo , which makes refreshing, un-oaked white wines whose herbal vibrancy recalls Sauvignon Blanc . Protos makes a tasty version. Up north in the Basque region, we find the wine called Txakoli (sometimes called Txakolina). Pronounced “sha-ko-LEE,” it’s made from a local grape called Hondurrabi Zuri and is light, fresh, citrusy, dry … and with razor sharp acidity that makes it a fantastic partner with local seafood and tapas. Ameztoi Gertariako is a good Spanish white wine producer to check out.
The Penedѐs region, best known for the oceans of delicious Cava it sends to the world, also produces still Spanish whites, sometimes from international varieties like Chardonnay , and often from the same grapes used for Cava. These include Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. Avaline produces a fine example of Penedes white. Finally, we visit the Rioja region. While it is historically and internationally famous for its reds, Rioja also produces fine Spanish white wines. These are usually based on Viura (the local name for Macabeo) and make good everyday sippers, although some aged versions can be stunningly complex. A good place to start is the white Rioja from Bodegas Muga.
As you can see, Spanish white wines offer a vast opportunity for exploration!