Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2011
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Winemaker Notes
Bright gold in color, nice froth with a persistent ring of bubbles. A delicate, floral nose, with notes of elderflower, Darjeeling black tea, linden honey and a final minty touch. Very persistent and expressive on the palate, with aromas of tea and black pepper. The finish is long and mineral.
Clos des Goisses is a very fine wine before being a very fine champagne. It is a perfect and unforgettable match for strong-flavored dishes such as poulard with morel mushrooms in cream sauce. Bottles will often benefit from being decanted into a carafe.
Professional Ratings
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Decanter
For the first time, the Clos des Goisses Champagne is entirely composed of Pinot Noir. Of the 14 parcels that compose the clos, grapes were sourced from only four for this vintage. Clos des Goisses 2011 is particularly floral with notes of iris, jasmine, roses as well as spring herbs. The nose is delightfully complicated by delicate citrus notes and hints of white peach. On the palate, the massive, full-bodied side of Clos des Goisses is certainly present but there seems to be less density than certain vintages. This is a more crystalline, precise expression of Clos des Goisses, one endowed with a fine and pure texture. Bravo! Dosage: 4.5 g/L. Disgorgement: March 2020.
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Wine Spectator
This offers fine integration of well-cut acidity with delicate flavors of crème de cassis, lemon curd and crushed almond. The mousse is lively and lacy in texture, carrying a streak of minerally chalk and smoke notes on the finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
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The Philipponnat family have been growing grapes in Champagne since 1522. The House was founded in 1910 by Pierre Philipponnat. Charles Philipponnat took over as CEO in 1999 and has improved the quality and production vastly by implementing smaller oak barrels, keeping different vineyard plots separate and utilizing only the first press. The jewel in the crown of the House is the historic and iconic 5.5 hectares 'Clos des Goisses' vineyard that sits on a steep, south-facing 45° slope starting at the Marne River. This is one of the warmest vineyard sites in all of Champagne and is planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In 1935 'Clos des Goisses' was the first single vineyard Champagne produced and it would take over 50 years for other Houses to start producing serious Champagne just from a single Clos.
Philipponnat applies natural methods to work the soil, hoeing by hand and plowing with horses. The House's expertise is particularly apparent in its use of the solera process. This technique is a very longstanding House tradition; it consists of keeping reserve wines in oak barrels and including them in non-vintage blends (in a proportion of one quarter to one third) and using this blend as a reserve wine for the following blend.
This progressive dilution allows every bottle to retain a trace of previous years' wines blended since the very beginning. Successive Cellar Masters have attached great importance to handing down this expertise. Philipponnat was the first Champagne House to indicate the main year used in its non-vintage blends, the dosage, and the date of disgorgement on back labels, informing consumers and wine experts of the characteristics of each cuvée.
Representing the topmost expression of a Champagne house, a vintage Champagne is one made from the produce of a single, superior harvest year. Vintage Champagnes account for a mere 5% of total Champagne production and are produced about three times in a decade. Champagne is typically made as a blend of multiple years in order to preserve the house style; these will have non-vintage, or simply, NV on the label. The term, "vintage," as it applies to all wine, simply means a single harvest year.
Associated with luxury, celebration, and romance, the region, Champagne, is home to the world’s most prized sparkling wine. In order to bear the label, ‘Champagne’, a sparkling wine must originate from this northeastern region of France—called Champagne—and adhere to strict quality standards. Made up of the three towns Reims, Épernay, and Aÿ, it was here that the traditional method of sparkling wine production was both invented and perfected, birthing a winemaking technique as well as a flavor profile that is now emulated worldwide.
Well-drained, limestone and chalky soil defines much of the region, which lend a mineral component to its wines. Champagne’s cold, continental climate promotes ample acidity in its grapes but weather differences from year to year can create significant variation between vintages. While vintage Champagnes are produced in exceptional years, non-vintage cuvées are produced annually from a blend of several years in order to produce Champagnes that maintain a consistent house style.
With nearly negligible exceptions, . These can be blended together or bottled as individual varietal Champagnes, depending on the final style of wine desired. Chardonnay, the only white variety, contributes freshness, elegance, lively acidity and notes of citrus, orchard fruit and white flowers. Pinot Noir and its relative Pinot Meunier, provide the backbone to many blends, adding structure, body and supple red fruit flavors. Wines with a large proportion of Pinot Meunier will be ready to drink earlier, while Pinot Noir contributes to longevity. Whether it is white or rosé, most Champagne is made from a blend of red and white grapes—and uniquely, rosé is often produce by blending together red and white wine. A Champagne made exclusively from Chardonnay will be labeled as ‘blanc de blancs,’ while ones comprised of only red grapes are called ‘blanc de noirs.’