Philippe Colin Santenay Les Gravieres Premier Cru 2016
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Intense, appealing roasted coffee and chocolate covered espresso bean aromas invade the senses immediately, carrying through to the palate where ripe red fruit, cherries and rich tobacco are evident along with a vibrant acidity. Solid tannins and a hint of smoke round out the lingering finish.
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Wine Spectator
Ripe, supple and juicy, boasting black cherry, black currant, violet and graphite aromas and flavors. This red is sleek and focused, with refined tannins supporting the lingering aftertaste. Drink now through 2028.
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Wine & Spirits
This comes from two parcels of gravelly soil, one where the vines are 25 years old, the other 45. Colin makes it in a similar way to his Santenay (also recommended here), then ages it using 50 percent new barrels. For now, that oak extract is substantial, though it doesn’t completely cover the scents of forest fruits, from wild strawberries to cherries and cèpes. Dense and formally structured, this needs several years in the cellar to show itself more completely.
Philippe Colin’s heritage runs deeply in Chassagne-Montrachet, which is situated in the Côte-d’Or and inhabits only 300 residents. His father, Michel Colin-Deléger’s lineage traces back on both sides of the family to the 1850s when their ancestors settled in the area. He inherited vineyards from both the Colins and his father-in-law, the esteemed Georges Deléger. Michel founded his winery, Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger, in 1987, garnering a reputation as one of the top estates in the region, producing renowned premier and grand cru wines. In 1988, after studying vititculture in Beaune, Philippe joined his parents in the family business working closely by their sides. During this time Philippe gained a plethora of knowledge from his father, sparking his passion for winemaking. In 2004 when Michel retired (keeping just three parcels for himself), Philippe and his brother Bruno decided to split the estate into two separate domaines in order to respect their different approaches to winemaking. Domaine Philippe Colin was founded in the same year. Philippe’s efforts were soon acknowledged, with the domaine gaining an abundance of international prestige and recognition. Domaine Philippe Colin’s holdings stretch approximately 30 acres with vineyards mainly in the Chassagne-Montrachet area but also in Santenay, Puligny-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin. He covers 24 appellations in total through his selections, which are classified as Bourgogne, Village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru. Philippe upholds the philosophy of respecting the vineyards, intervening as little as possible to allow the purest expression of terroir to shine through, as each plot is markedly different.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
In the far southern end of the Côte de Beaune, Santenay forms a little notch that juts into the otherwise straight border with Côte Chalonnaise.
Santenay red wines show the true essence of red Burgundy at good price points and without demanding a lot of cellar time. Enticing aromas of rose-petal, violet, red fruits and licorice lead to sturdiness on the palate. With soils rich in oolitic limestone and marl, this is the home of well-constructed, hearty Pinot noir and represents a fantastic region to explore if you are just beginning your understanding of red Burgundy.
Reputable vineyards of Santenay include La Maladière, as well as the Premier Crus of La Comme, Clos de Tavannes, and Les Gravières.