Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2009
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2009 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a more intense bouquet than the 2010, although it does not possess the same otherworldly sense of nuance and complexity. Yet it blossoms in the glass, attaining more and more precision, and redcurrant and cranberry scents appear mixed with rose petal and bergamot. The palate is medium-bodied with lovely balance and poise; the tannins are perhaps a little firmer and grippier than the 2010 with a symmetry on the finish that is beguiling. It actually becomes more like the 2010 on the finish so that the two wines end up more similar than you would expect, given the growing season. It is a sublime expression of the vintage.
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Wine Spectator
Ripe and exotic, offering wild berry, black currant and violet aromas and flavors. The oak is well-integrated, lending sandalwood notes, and this is firmly structured, with a long, detailed aftertaste. Shows fine pedigree. Best from 2015 through 2030.
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In 1865, Jean-Marie Mommessin founded the wine making firm that bears his name in Burgundy, an area known as a cradle of viticulture just north of Lyon. In 1889, Mommessin acquired La Grange Saint-Pierre, ancient stone buildings in Macon that originally belonged to the Abbey of Cluny. Its key, the Key of St. Peter, became the famous house emblem and remains so still.
Today, the 5th generation of the Mommessin family produces and bottles wines with an abiding respect for each wine's unique character - ever careful to produce results that are "true to their type," and therefore perfect examples of their appellation.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
While Morey-St-Denis of Burgundy might not get the same attention as its neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, there is no reason why it shouldn’t. The same line of limestone runs from the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey—all the way through Morey—ending in Chambolle.
There are four grand cru vineyards, moving southwards from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin: Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart and a small segment of Bonnes-Mares overlapping from Chambolle. Clos de la Roche is probably the finest vineyard, giving wines of true depth, body, and sturdiness for the long haul than most other vineyards.
Pinot Noir from Morey-St-Denis is known for its deep red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. Aromas of spice, licorice and purple flowers are present in the wines’ youth, evolving to forest and game as the wine ages.