Lucien Crochet Le Chene Sancerre 2010
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Caraway, white pepper, green tea, and mint pungently set the nose and palate tingling in Crochet’s 2010 Sancerre Le Chene, with lemon, lime and kumquat offering a juicy but almost severely zesty matrix on an expansive palate that practically glows and vibrates with zesty yet rich intensity. Chalky, salty, and somehow crystalline mineral elements add to a finish of shimmering and shimmying length. This dazzlingly interactive show should have at least a ten year run, perhaps even surpassing Crochet's wonderful 2008, which is today even more beautifully kaleidoscopic today than when I attempted to wax eloquently about it in issue 190.
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Robert
Parker
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Robert
Parker
Lucien Crochet expanded the estate over the last thirty years to its current surface area of 38 hectares. His son, Gilles, now runs the estate. 29 hectares are planted with Sauvignon Blanc. It is with these grapes that they produce their range of white wines. The remaining 9 hectares are planted with Pinot Noir which go into the making of the red and rosé wines.
Most of Lucien Crochet's vineyards are located within the village of Bué, with some in the neighbouring communes of Sancerre, Crézancy and Vinon. The soil and subsoil are clay-limestone based and date back to the Oxfordian and Kimmeridgian stages.
Most of the vines face south, south-west and south-east, giving the grapes maximum exposure to the summer sun.
Capable of a vast array of styles, Sauvignon Blanc is a crisp, refreshing variety that equally reflects both terroir and varietal character. Though it can vary depending on where it is grown, a couple of commonalities always exist—namely, zesty acidity and intense aromatics. This variety is of French provenance. Somm Secret—Along with Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc is a proud parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. That green bell pepper aroma that all three varieties share is no coincidence—it comes from a high concentration of pyrazines (herbaceous aromatic compounds) inherent to each member of the family.
Marked by its charming hilltop village in the easternmost territory of the Loire, Sancerre is famous for its racy, vivacious, citrus-dominant Sauvignon blanc. Its enormous popularity in 1970s French bistros led to its success as the go-to restaurant white around the globe in the 1980s.
While the region claims a continental climate, noted for short, hot summers and long, cold winters, variations in topography—rolling hills and steep slopes from about 600 to 1,300 feet in elevation—with great soil variations, contribute the variations in character in Sancerre Sauvignon blancs.
In the western part of the appellation, clay and limestone soils with Kimmeridgean marne, especially in Chavignol, produce powerful wines. Moving closer to the actual town of Sancerre, soils are gravel and limestone, producing especially delicate wines. Flint (silex) soils close to the village produce particularly perfumed and age-worthy wines.
About ten percent of the wines claiming the Sancerre appellation name are fresh and light red wines made from Pinot noir and to a lesser extent, rosés. While not typically exported in large amounts, they are well-made and attract a loyal French following.