Louis Cheze Condrieu Pagus Luminis 2015
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Wine Spectator
This has power, with a large core of creamed peach, nectarine and yellow apple fruit. Lengthy, pure and vibrant, with a mineral streak running underneath and chamomile and honeysuckle notes gilding the finish. Dreamy wine. Drink now through 2022.
Mr Chèze started the venture with 1 ha of Saint Joseph and some grapevines in lease. Today, the entire domain is 30 ha and includes some highly esteemed appellations such as Condrieu, Saint Joseph and Vin de Pays. Mr Chèze’s resolve, curiosity and meticulousness are applied regarding the vineyard monitoring and the winemaking process. Every vintage is a new challenge, with the purpose of producing the embodiment of each terroir and their delightful specificities.
The vineyard is run according to the viticulture raisonnée (sustainable winegrowing), where the main concern is the respect of the grape vine. At the Chèze domain, each vineyard is handled according to the specificities of each parcel. If the slope allows for it, grapevine trellising is used; and if not, grapevine stakes are used on the slopes.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.