LaFou Els Amelers 2013
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2013 Els Amelers is pure, old-vine Garnacha Blanca aged in contact with the lees for seven months with only a small part of the wine matured in oak, which helps to keep the freshness. Mediterranean herbs, fennel and pollen intermixed with white and yellow fruit define the nose. The medium-bodied palate is clean, has focused flavors but somehow I was expecting more freshness. Anyway, a very good Garnacha Blanca.
Apparently, the olive oil mill, which existed in the building from 1780, was unable to continue operating without the water reservoir, therefore it was sold to the Figueras family, who turned the building into their home.
Today it is owned by the Roqueta family, who have renovated it to create a unique space with all the facilities of a modern winery. This intervention has revealed the different elements used in the production and storage of wine and olive oil, and other architectural features, such as ancestral capitals and old fermentation tanks, thus showing the qualities typical of manor house constructions in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The winery also has a completely renovated inner courtyard, which is equipped with the finest systems for selection and care of the grapes, with the aim of maintaining the distinguishing characteristics of the region in the varieties cultivated on its territory.
In 2007, Ramon Roqueta Segalés, younger member of a family with a long-standing tradition in the world of wine, decided to embark on a personal project: LaFou Celler in Terra Alta, one of the most authentic wine-growing areas with a long history and major potential.
White grapes are used in two famous types of Spanish wine, Sherry and Cava, but we will limit this discussion to still whites. Let’s begin with perhaps the best known and most highly regarded internationally, Albariño . Produced in the region of Rías Baixas, just above Portugal in northwestern Spain, Albariño typically sees no or little oak and is medium to medium-plus in body. Aroma and flavor notes often include citrus and peach, often with subtle floral notes and a suggestion of sea spray, giving the wine a zesty feel. Often bottled as a single varietal, Albariño is sometimes blended with other indigenous grapes like Loureira and Treixadura. Try one of these Spanish whites from Forjas del Salnes.
Let’s look at a few other Spanish white wines. Godello also hails from northwestern Spain and presents a profile of grapefruit, minerality and a slight smoky quality. Enjoy a bottle from Bodegas Avancia. The region of Rueda, northwest of Madrid, is home to Verdejo , which makes refreshing, un-oaked white wines whose herbal vibrancy recalls Sauvignon Blanc . Protos makes a tasty version. Up north in the Basque region, we find the wine called Txakoli (sometimes called Txakolina). Pronounced “sha-ko-LEE,” it’s made from a local grape called Hondurrabi Zuri and is light, fresh, citrusy, dry … and with razor sharp acidity that makes it a fantastic partner with local seafood and tapas. Ameztoi Gertariako is a good Spanish white wine producer to check out.
The Penedѐs region, best known for the oceans of delicious Cava it sends to the world, also produces still Spanish whites, sometimes from international varieties like Chardonnay , and often from the same grapes used for Cava. These include Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. Avaline produces a fine example of Penedes white. Finally, we visit the Rioja region. While it is historically and internationally famous for its reds, Rioja also produces fine Spanish white wines. These are usually based on Viura (the local name for Macabeo) and make good everyday sippers, although some aged versions can be stunningly complex. A good place to start is the white Rioja from Bodegas Muga.
As you can see, Spanish white wines offer a vast opportunity for exploration!