Jeff Cohn Cellars Grenache 2012
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Normally, when I want great California Grenache, I look to Justin Smith at Saxum or his nearby neighbor, Matt Trevisan, or further south at John Alban in Arroyo Grande, or the incomparable Manfred Krankl at Sine Qua Non. However, Jeff Cohn’s beautiful 2012 Grenache The Fallen Angel El Diablo Vineyard is serious Grenache by any standard of measurement. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by classic notes of lavender, kirsch and licorice. With gorgeous purity, a full-bodied texture and a finish that won’t quit, this superb, sexy Grenache can be drunk now and over the next 5-7 years.
All JC Cellars wines are fermented in open top fermenting vessels that range in size from a half ton to eight tons, where each bin is hand punched down five times per day. This time-consuming procedure allows maximum exposure of skins to juice, intensifying the flavor of the fruit while handling it as gently as possible.
Grenache thrives in any warm, Mediterranean climate where ample sunlight allows its clusters to achieve full phenolic ripeness. While Grenache's birthplace is Spain (there called Garnacha), today it is more recognized as the key player in the red blends of the Southern Rhône, namely Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côtes du Rhône and its villages. Somm Secret—The Italian island of Sardinia produces bold, rustic, single varietal Grenache (there called Cannonau). California, Washington and Australia have achieved found success with Grenache, both flying solo and in blends.
A standout region for its decidedly Californian take on Burgundian varieties, the Russian River Valley is named for the eponymous river that flows through it. While there are warm pockets of the AVA, it is mostly a cool-climate growing region thanks to breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir reign supreme in Russian River, with the best examples demonstrating a unique combination of richness and restraint. The cool weather makes Russian River an ideal AVA for sparkling wine production, utilizing the aforementioned varieties. Zinfandel also performs exceptionally well here. Within the Russian River Valley lie the smaller appellations of Chalk Hill and Green Valley. The former, farther from the ocean, is relatively warm, with a focus on red and white Bordeaux varieties. The latter is the coolest, foggiest parcel of the Russian River Valley and is responsible for outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.