Jean Pabiot Fines Caillottes Pouilly Fume 2012
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Domaine Jean Pabiot’s Pouilly Fumé Les Fines Caillottes comes from 30 distinct parcels spread over 5 communes of the appellation. The sites have varying terroirs, all of which combine to give the wine remarkable complexity and nuance. The main types are limestone covered with small white pebbles (caillottes); marl with fossilized oysters; and flint. The sub soil is clay-limestone. The vines average 20 years of age, and the oldest vines, totaling 3 hectares, are over 40 years old on very stony soils. The vineyards are cultivated sustainably and no synthetic fertilizers are used. Many parcels have grass planted between the rows, and the Pabiots regularly green-harvest and remove leaves to aerate the vines. They use organic fertilizer in the form of vine cuttings to restore the soil’s balance. The cuttings are plowed into the soil which fosters a healthy natural ambiance in the vineyards. The grapes are moved quickly to the winery to minimize contact with oxygen. They are de-stemmed and allowed to partially (15% in 2012) soak with the skins at low temperature before pressing. Fermentation begins spontaneously, with the natural yeasts present on the grapes and each site of origin is vinified separately. The gross lees are removed 3 weeks after the fermentation stops. The wine then develops for 4 – 5 months in tank on its fine lees, with occasional pumping over of the lees for enrichment and added complexity. The diverse origins are assembled in March. The new vintage of Pouilly Fumé is bottled in April and released for sale one month later.
Capable of a vast array of styles, Sauvignon Blanc is a crisp, refreshing variety that equally reflects both terroir and varietal character. Though it can vary depending on where it is grown, a couple of commonalities always exist—namely, zesty acidity and intense aromatics. This variety is of French provenance. Somm Secret—Along with Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc is a proud parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. That green bell pepper aroma that all three varieties share is no coincidence—it comes from a high concentration of pyrazines (herbaceous aromatic compounds) inherent to each member of the family.
Praised for its stately Renaissance-era chateaux, the picturesque Loire valley produces pleasant wines of just about every style. Just south of Paris, the appellation lies along the river of the same name and stretches from the Atlantic coast to the center of France.
The Loire can be divided into three main growing areas, from west to east: the Lower Loire, Middle Loire, and Upper/Central Loire. The Pay Nantais region of the Lower Loire—farthest west and closest to the Atlantic—has a maritime climate and focuses on the Melon de Bourgogne variety, which makes refreshing, crisp, aromatic whites.
The Middle Loire contains Anjou, Saumur and Touraine. In Anjou, Chenin Blanc produces some of, if not the most, outstanding dry and sweet wines with a sleek, mineral edge and characteristics of crisp apple, pear and honeysuckle. Cabernet Franc dominates red and rosé production here, supported often by Grolleau and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sparkling Crémant de Loire is a specialty of Saumur. Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc are common in Touraine as well, along with Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay and Malbec (known locally as Côt).
The Upper Loire, with a warm, continental climate, is Sauvignon Blanc country, home to the world-renowned appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Pinot Noir and Gamay produce bright, easy-drinking red wines here.