Hexamer Nahe Riesling Quarzit 2019
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Suckling
James -
Parker
Robert
Product Details
Your Rating
Somm Note
Winemaker Notes
Harald and Petra Hexamer run this family estate in a stone quiet section of the Nahe. Wines are fermented in a mixture of steel and large cask.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
What a seductive fruit-salad nose this animating and elegant, medium-dry Riesling has! Very clean and bright with a touch of tannin at the finish giving it structure.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2019 Riesling Quarzit is bright, pure and flinty on the stony/dusty but also charmingly fruity and very delicate picture-book nose. Round and lush on the palate, this is a charming but tensioned and grippy Riesling from Meddersheim. Due to the residual sugar, which is somewhere between medium dry and medium sweet, this is not an ascetic but tensioned and thrilling Riesling that delivers the quartzite terroir in an accessible style. The sweetness is more palatable compared to the Porphyr but for good reasons: The minor grip and complex acidity would be too challenging for a wine at this precise point. I am sure it will be fabulous after some years of bottle aging. To me, this is another picture-book Riesling form Harald Hexamer. Bottled with 11% alcohol. Tasted from AP 15 20 in January 2021.
Other Vintages
2022-
Suckling
James
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Enthusiast
Wine
Harald Hexamer’s dedication is seen both his work in the vineyards and in the cellars. Hexamer holds 7.5 hectares in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg, a steep south-east facing slope of red sandstone with deposits of quartzite, which is known for producing especially small berries. Hexamer often harvests riper grapes from another site (Marbach) but the wines of Rheingrafenberg grapes are “more filigree and better-structured.” Schlossböckelheimer In den Felsen (“In the Rocks”) is a small vineyard at 6.5 hectares, of which the Hexamer’s own 4.5. The vineyard is markedly steep with south facing slopes composed of rocky porphyry and produces wines characterized by softer acidity and a subtle smokiness.
Hexamer’s meticulous work in the vineyard is marked by pruning to control yields (“often six to eight bunches per wine”) and hand-harvesting. The grapes are picked exclusively by hand and fermented very cold (below 12 degrees celsius) with cooling utilized only when necessary – “but we often pick so late we bring naturally cold fruit — below 10 degrees — back to the winery.” Hexamer handles the wine as little as possible: no dosage is used, inoculations are made only with native yeasts, and all wines are whole-cluster pressed. 95% of all Rieslings at Hexamer are made in stainless steel and racked only once, three to six weeks after fermentation is complete. The wines are bottled early to preserve their vigor. For the Burgundian varieties, Harald constructed his own barrels in Meddersheim using oak from the Hunsrück forest seasoned for 5 years. When tasting the wines, one sees the purity of the vineyards, the intensity of minerality and remarkable clarity. Hexamer’s wines are balanced in the ultraviolet spectrum; they’re steely, acid-driven, clean and transparent.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.