Eugen Muller Vom Basalt Pechstein Riesling Kabinett 2017
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Basalt is of course (and famously) the soil of the Pechstein, from which this wine indeed hails, but it’s bottled under the name of a small privileged Grosslage because it’s the “item” Müller’s private customers recognize. It is also a super-aromatic lot fermented with a less vigorous yeast strain that guarantees an incomplete result, i.e., residual sugar. It’s more gentle than to intervene to stop fermentation by chilling, filtering or sulfuring. So if you’re someone for whom the very notion of cultured yeast fills you with dread…well, um yes: actual thinking is hard. This wine also snakes its way around the palate but this time it’s all flowers and gloss; starts out musky but firms up and becomes sleek and lithe with a refined dialogue among herbs, pebbles and blooms.
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2018-
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This estate was initially established in 1767 as a cooperage and in 1935 the winery began producing wines of their own. Kurt Müller and his son Stephan are the 3rd generation to run the estate. Stephan joined the family business in 2000 after completing his studies in viniculture at Geisenheim.
The specialties of the estate are the racy, aromatic and elegant Riesling wines which prosper in the excellent Forster Grosses Gewächs sites Kirchenstück, Jesuitengarten, Ungeheuer and Pechstein. The basalt found in the soils around Forst acts as a thermal reservoir, radiating warmth slowly during the night and thus reducing the daily variations in temperature. In addition, these well-ventilated soils which warm up quickly allow the development of fruity wines rich in minerals and extracts. In 1828, the King of Bavaria, who ruled the Palatinate at the time, conducted a soil survey of all vineyards: top Forst vineyards achieved the highest point scores between 55 and 65. The Forster Kirchenstück, scored the maximum possible 65 points. At Eugen Müller, vines are a minimum of 15 years for all Pradikät wines, even if ripeness is achieved at a younger age.
The Mullers follow the guidelines of certified environmentally-friendly wine growing. Mechanical soil tillage, environmentally friendly plant protection and selection of the grapes for harvesting during vintage are all maintained with sustainability in mind. Vinification is practiced with slow, cooled fermentations and maturing in stainless steel tanks as well as wooden barrels.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
This sunny and relatively dry region served for many years as a German tourist mecca and was associated with low cost, cheerful wines. But since the 1980s, it has gained a reputation as one of Germany’s more innovative regions, which has led to increased international demand.