Eric Forest Poilly-Fuisse L'Ame Forest 2008
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Apart from being one of the most picturesque nooks in this part of Burgundy, Vergisson is preternaturally perfect for growing Chardonnay. What makes this town special is the “Roche de Vergisson,” an ancient reef of chalk that rears up like the prow of a ship, scattering limestone down the hill where growers have most of their vines. Some of the best vineyards, such as Pouilly Fuissé and Macon Vergisson “La Roche,” sit in this chalky soil high on the slope, where they feast on the late afternoon sun.
Vergisson is also special because here families, not multinational corporations, make wine—artisans with an inspiring commitment to quality. Enter Eric Forest, the progeny of many generations of winemakers and coopers in this hamlet of Chardonnay. Forest isn’t satisfied with just upholding tradition, however—he’s looking to turn the white Burgundy world on its head.
Call it youthful exuberance, or budding genius. Since Forest’s first vintage in 2000 we’ve made a point to keep an eye on this young winemaker. Barely 30 years old, Forest apprenticed under Jean-Marie Guffens, the pioneer of Macônnais Chardonnay. With just a few small parcels producing a miniscule amount of wine each year, Forest has amazed us with his winemaking wisdom that far exceeds his years.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
The source of some of the most sought-after white wines of the Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé is produced exclusively from the Chardonnay grape and tends to be slightly richer in style than wines from its northern neighbor, the Côte de Beaune—mainly due to warmer weather. Wines from Pouilly-Fuissé have some versatility; they can be enjoyed young and can also often improve with a little time in the cellar. Pouilly-Fuissé wines are considered some of the best values for white Burgundy.
Similar to the Côte de Beaune, the soils of Pouilly-Fuissé are mainly limestone and clay. The appellation includes the communes of Fuissé, Solutré (which includes Pouilly), Vergisson and Chaintré. The richest Chardonnay comes from Fuissé and Solutré-Pouilly, whereas the Chardonnay at higher elevation, from Vergisson, expresses more minerality and finesse. Pairing Pouilly-Fuissé with lobster or King Crab will bring great joy not only to your palate—but also your pocketbook!