Donnhoff Dellchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2018
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Suckling
James -
Spectator
Wine
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Winemaker Notes
The usually inscrutable Dellchen has been atypically “present” the day before at Schneider, and this one also seemed more “available” than it’s tended to be. A full-moon brightness, a blush of fruit and a crusty bite. Three registers of activity here; white meat, grains, dust – and who knows which will prevail or how the dialogue will alter? It made him think of the Kamptal’s Gaisberg without the white peach and blueberry.
The site is a conglomerate of slate and porphyry, sitting on little hollows between cliff faces; it’s very steep and terraced and remote, which may account for the riddlesome nature of its wines, more driven by umami than its more communicative neighbors. Which makes the ’18 all the more intriguing.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
A dense and layered white with minerals, salt, white pepper, chalk, dried lemon and subtle pears. Pumice. Wow. Tiny film of oil. Creamy and insane. What a wine. Magic. One for the cellar. Drink or hold.
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Wine Spectator
Precise and focused, with intense acidity behind the lemon-lime, durian and white pepper notes. Needs time to mellow, but shows potential, featuring fruit and floral element that combine with powerful acidity and minerality. Best from 2023 through 2032.
Other Vintages
2020-
Suckling
James -
Parker
Robert
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Suckling
James -
Parker
Robert
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Suckling
James
The grandchild of the estate‘s founder, Helmut Dönnhoff, paved the way for international success by establishing an enduring quality and style in his wines. His vintages would in fact become a byword for renowned German Rieslings the world over. Following his training at his parents‘ estate and university studies in winegrowing, he assumed responsibility for both vineyard and cellar starting in 1971. “Extraordinary wines are based on extraordinary vineyards. I‘m fortunate to have had the opportunity to acquire several world-class sites and in some cases to resume cultivation. It remains very much a privilege for me to produce wine from vineyards of such exceptional quality. It‘s more than I ever could have dreamed when I first started working.” This deep understanding of grand wines and grand vineyards was passed on from father to son to grandson.
The fourth generation now holds the reins: Cornelius Dönnhoff. He began his training in 1999 and, after a series of positions abroad, in 2007 returned to assume responsibility for the estate – initially for the vineyard and cellar, and now for all aspects of the operation. History continues, but the estate remains what it has always been: a family affair in every sense.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.