Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu Premier Cru (1.5 Liter Magnum) 2015
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Parker
Robert - Decanter
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots was picked over two days on 3 and 4 September. It has a very powerful bouquet with black cherries, raspberry confit and sous-bois notes—all very nicely poised, despite the intensity that this terroir always confers upon its wines. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. It is beautifully poised and focused with the mineralité percolating through that carapace of black cherry and blackcurrant fruit, leading to an energetic finish that leaves the mouth tingling for a minute or so afterwards. This is a fabulous Volnay from Dominique Lafon and sure to age effortlessly over 20 years with the Champans at its heels.
Barrel Sample: 93-95 -
Decanter
A pure and still primary bouquet of cassis, raspberry, woodsmoke and espresso leads into a deep, concentrated palate with a firm core of tannin and acidity. It will need a good deacde to truly blossom in the cellar, and ideally longer.
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Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
On the hillsides between Pommard and Meursault, Volnay is one of two villages in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy that is recognized for its extraordinary Pinot Noir. Pommard is the other; the rest of the villages are most known for some of the most exceptional Chardonnay in the world. While Volnay Pinot Noir tends to be light in color and more delicate than that of Pommard, they typically stand on par with each other in regards to quality and demand.
Volnay can’t claim any Grands Crus vineyards but more than half of it has achieved Premier Cru status. Volnay Premiers Crus vineyards stretch across the entire village from northeast to southwest, abutting and actually falling “into” Meursault. Where they merge is a vineyard called Les Santenots. Pinot Noir grows in this Meursault Premier Cru but since that village is most associated with stellar whites, the Pinot Noir from Les Santenots, takes the name Volnay Santenots. Immediately above it are Volnay’s other prized Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Champans, Clos des Chênes and Le Cailleret.
Volnay Pinot Noir are earthy with red or blue fruit. Aromas such as smoke, herbs, forest, cocoa and spice are common and on the palate they are gorgeous and concentrated with finesse but won’t truly charm you without some age.