Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 2015
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Dunnuck
Jeb - Decanter
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2015 Meursault Clos de la Barre is brilliant and has plenty of oomph and richness yet stays beautifully pure, vibrant, and chiseled on the palate. Notes of citrus oil, stone fruits, exotic flowers, brioche, and crushed rock-like minerality all give way to a medium to full-bodied, powerful Meursault that fleshes out beautifully with time in the glass. This is classic Meursault all the way, and while it’s drinking brilliantly today, it certainly has another decade or more of prime drinking.
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Decanter
The Clos de la Barre is typically a notable step up from the normal Meursault, and that is very much the case again this year. Notes of confit lemon, apple and tart mirabelle plum lead into a palate with more concentration, cut and tension at the core than its village sibling.
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One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
Known to offer a magical balance of smoothness and freshness, Meursault's quality is hard to rival. The village lies in the middle of Côte de Beaune, just south of Volnay. Meursault is said to mean “mouse’s jump” because in the past the plots producing Pinot Noir and those producing Chardonnay were no more than a mouse’s jump from one another. Today the village is almost exclusively Chardonnay. A tiny bit of Pinot Noir is produced here with the best coming from Les Santenots on its northern side near Volnay.
While there are no Grands Crus, Meursault’s numerous acclaimed Premiers Crus can compete with any other top-notch white Burgundy. Some to know are Les Perrières, Les Genevrières, Les Charmes, Le Poruzot, Les Bouchères and Les Gouttes d’Or.
Meursault produces outstanding village level wines as well. In general great Premiers Crus and even village level Meursault (Chardonnay) have enticing aromas of lime peel, tropical fruit, crushed rocks, spice and hazelnut. On the palate there is a wonderful balance of brightness and a seductive length with flavors of white peach, pineapple and citrus.