Domaine Jules Desjourneys Fleurie Les Moriers 2011
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Suckling
James -
Parker
Robert
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James Suckling
Fabulous aromas of blackberries, black cherries, lavender, bark, and mushroom follow through to a full body, yet it is so layered and focused. Wet earth. Great length and complexity. More like a Moulin-a-Vent. From a 1.6 hectare single vineyard with 60 to 100 years. Drink now.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2011 Fabien Duperray Fleurie “Les Moriers” Tres Vieilles Vignes, which Fabien has farmed organically for the longest time, was cropped at 13.35 hectoliters per hectare and is raised for 12 months in oak (20% new) and 12 months in tank. It has a very pure bouquet that shows a little more finesse and focus than the “La Chapelle des Bois”: blueberry and cassis at first, later joined by those same crushed violet petals. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet and rounded, almost melted tannins. It displays impressive weight, dense, concentrated black fruit with a powerful black cherry finish with touches of cloves and white pepper lingering on the aftertaste. Drink 2018-2025.
Other Vintages
2010-
Parker
Robert
Delightfully playful, but also capable of impressive gravitas, Gamay is responsible for juicy, berry-packed wines. From Beaujolais, Gamay generally has three classes: Beaujolais Nouveau, a decidedly young, fruit-driven wine, Beaujolais Villages and Cru Beaujolais. The Villages and Crus are highly ranked grape growing communes whose wines are capable of improving with age whereas Nouveau, released two months after harvest, is intended for immediate consumption. Somm Secret—The ten different Crus have their own distinct personalities—Fleurie is delicate and floral, Côte de Brouilly is concentrated and elegant and Morgon is structured and age-worthy.
The bucolic region often identified as the southern part of Burgundy, Beaujolais actually doesn’t have a whole lot in common with the rest of the region in terms of climate, soil types and grape varieties. Beaujolais achieves its own identity with variations on style of one grape, Gamay.
Gamay was actually grown throughout all of Burgundy until 1395 when the Duke of Burgundy banished it south, making room for Pinot Noir to inhabit all of the “superior” hillsides of Burgundy proper. This was good news for Gamay as it produces a much better wine in the granitic soils of Beaujolais, compared with the limestone escarpments of the Côte d’Or.
Four styles of Beaujolais wines exist. The simplest, and one that has regrettably given the region a subpar reputation, is Beaujolais Nouveau. This is the Beaujolais wine that is made using carbonic maceration (a quick fermentation that results in sweet aromas) and is released on the third Thursday of November in the same year as harvest. It's meant to drink young and is flirty, fruity and fun. The rest of Beaujolais is where the serious wines are found. Aside from the wines simply labelled, Beaujolais, there are the Beaujolais-Villages wines, which must come from the hilly northern part of the region, and offer reasonable values with some gems among them. The superior sections are the cru vineyards coming from ten distinct communes: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly. Any cru Beajolais will have its commune name prominent on the label.