Domaine Huet Clos du Bourg Moelleux Premier Trie 2009
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Winemaker Notes
Gaston Huët believed this to be the greatest of all Vouvray vineyards. With the Première Côte's shallowest, stoniest soils, its wines often synthesize Le Mont's intense minerality with Le Haut-Lieu's generous texture.
Professional Ratings
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Wine Enthusiast
A majestic, magisterial wine, powered by superripe fruit as well as honey and a gorgeous ripeness. With years ahead of it, this will be superb.
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Wine Spectator
This is gorgeous, with notes of ginger, orange, clementine, white peach and green fig all bouncing off one another, but working harmoniously through the richly detailed finish. A lingering green tea note hangs on for added length as this puts on weight with air. Drink now through 2025. 760 cases made.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tiny berry- and desiccated concentration rather than botrytis characterize even the 2009 Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1er Trie. This evinces an as yet unresolved tension between fresh citrus, chalk, and alkali on the one hand, and honey, caramel, and nut paste on the other. For all of its ripeness, there is a sense of textural firmness underlying the palate impression here. Marzipan, singed vanilla cookies, and suggestions of both peach and strawberry preserves enhance the wine’s confectionary aura, and despite its manifestly good strong acidity by vintage standards, the nearly 100 grams of residual sugar present here certainly result in a dominating youthful sweetness in its formidably long finish. If you want this to balance on its own (i.e. not in a dessert wine capacity) then I would be prepared to wait more than a decade, and the wine no doubt has at least three in it. Pinguet says this reminds him of the 1989 1er trie bottlings at the same stage.
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Today, Domaine Huet may be making its most consistently great wines. As was one of the earliest adopters of biodynamic practices, and with years of experience working with the appellation's greatest terroirs, winemaker Jean-Bernard Berthome and his team are achieving a fascinating level of transparency, purity, and knife-edged balance in the wines.