Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Porrets St. Georges Premier Cru 2009
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Parker
Robert
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Monopole of a superficy area of 3,6 hectares, this parcel is located right under les Perrières, a former pit of Nuits Saint Georges that was previously exploited by the monks of Citeaux. Set on the pink limestone and very rocky Premeaux, the Clos des Porrets is made of limestone screes and of a soil high in clay on lower slopes. Long-keeping wines that come from it express a lovely finesse after a few years of bottles. The Porrets are especially mentioned by Dr Lavalle in 1855, author of a well-known book on the wines of Burgundy, which he considers as one of the best cru of the commune.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Clos des Porrets St. Georges comes across as silky, perfumed and quite pretty in this vintage. There is an early approachability to the wine that makes it an excellent choice for drinking over the near and mid-term. Gregoire Gouges told me he didn’t think the wine would shut down in bottle as that would already be obvious already if it was happening. He added that the 2005 closed down right after bottling. Crushed flowers, licorice and spices are some of the notes that linger on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.
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The creation of Domaine Henri Gouges was the culmination of 400 years of family grape farmers, and it is, in many minds, the top domaine in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Henri formed the domaine in 1920 but was soon discouraged with selling the fruit to négociants. He envisioned a better quality wine, and by 1933, he was producing, bottling, and selling directly. He, along with the Marquis d’Angerville from Volnay, was at the forefront of battles against fraud in Burgundy in the 1920s. In the 1930s, Monsieur Gouges was one of the people charged with the job of delineating the crus in Burgundy for the Institut National d’Appellation d’Origine, and he was a member of that regulatory body at its outset. Since the beginning, the domaine has remained an undivided family property. In 1967 Henri’s two sons, Michel and Marcel, succeeded him and added to the holdings of the estate. Each of them handed leadership over to one of their sons to bring the domaine to the next stage. Pierre and Christian began the modernization of the vineyards and the winery, which they have now turned over to Pierre’s son, Gregory, and his cousin, Antoine. While the house style has evolved, the main focus is the better reflection of the terroir in the fruit through organic viticulture. They believe that healthy vines produce quality fruit and thus more expressive terroir-driven wines.
Celebrated as some of the best wine in the universe, red wine from Burgundy, otherwise known as red Burgundy, is Pinot noir. In fact Burgundy is the birthplace of Pinot noir and the source of the planet’s most sensual, delicate, valuable and sought-after Pinot noir wines.
Understanding and enjoying red Burgundy can stay simple, with a basic knowledge of its subregions, become more intricate by dialing down to the villages and vineyards or become a life-long passion, exploring climats (plots of vines), vintages and the post French Revolution land ownership laws. In any case, a fine red Burgundy will display refined nuances of black currant, red fruit, earth, spice, alluring floral aromatics and have great elegance, complexity and longevity.
Most famous, praised and collected of Burgunday are those from the Côte d'Or. Hundreds of millions of years ago, the area now called Côte d'Or was under a warm ocean whose sea floor has, over time, shifted and decomposed into various layers of limestone, sandstone and clay interspersed with ancient fossilized sea creatures. This is what is referred to as the famous escarpment upon which all of the highly sought-after Grands Crus and Premiers Crus vineyards can be found. In other words, from north to south, the best vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Flagey-Echezeaux, Nuits-St-Georges, Aloxe-Corton, Pommard and Volnay follow the path of this ancient sea bed.