Domaine Anne Gros Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Le Grand Maupertui 2016
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Parker
Robert - Decanter
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2016 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Le Grand Maupertui is showing very well from bottle, opening in the glass with intense aromas of wild blueberry, cassis, spicy soil tones, licorice and violet. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and layered, with excellent depth and dimension at the core, displaying more concentration and fine-grained structure than the 2017 rendition and concluding with a pure, mineral finish.
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Decanter
This Clos Vougeot is lovely in 2016, with a brooding bouquet of black fruit, candied peel, woodsmoke and roast game bird. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, ample and rich, with succulent balancing acids, a layered core of fruit and fine but firm tannins which assert themselves on the back end.
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Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Containing the largest Grand Cru in all of the Côte d’Or, Vougeot, the village, takes its name from the small stream flowing through it, called Vouge. Over three quarters of the village retains Grand Cru status, and a single vineyard at that: Clos de Vougeot (or simply, Clos Vougeot). Its mass—over 50 ha—retains the single name chiefly for historic reasons.
But today, Clos de Vougeot contains over 80 owners and shows significant soil and slope variations within its boundaries. The top, bordering Musigny and Grands Echezeaux, is calcareous and gravelly on oolitic limestone and exhibits wonderful drainage. The middle sections are limestone, gravel and clay with less of a slope. The lower part has little slant and is mostly made of clay. Historically the diverse parcels were blended but today the abundance of owners means that everyone has his own style. Exploring and understanding them is part of the allure of Clos de Vougeot.
In general a fine Clos de Vougeot when young will be dense and dark but juicy, with a pronounced austerity, and needs a good ten years to bring it to its full potential.