Domaine A.F. Gros Pommard Les Pezerolles Premier Cru 2012
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Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Pommard 1er Cru les Pezerolles from A.F Gros has a rather stemmy bouquet, nicely defined if missing just a touch of energy because of the challenges of the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with surprisingly fine tannin. There is a dab of oak to be resolved, but the palate is far more stylish and appealing than the aromatics, and it lingers nicely in the mouth. It improves and gains more and more purity as it aerates.
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In 1996 Jean and Jeanine Gros retired and so they divided the Jean Gros Domain between their three children Michel, Bernard and Anne-Françoise. Each Domaine is autonomous and independent (Domaine Michel Gros in Vosne Romanee, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur directed by Bernard in Vosne Romanée, and Domaine Anne-Francoise Gros in Pommard). In Vosne, there also exists the Domaine of their cousin Anne Gros. So there is 4 famous Domaines Gros. In Vosne, it also exists the Domaine of their cousin Anne GROS. So there is 4 famous Domaines GROS.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Representing some of the darkest, deepest and sturdiest Pinot Noir of Burgundy, Pommard is one of the two villages in Côte de Beaune—along with Volnay—that is recognized for its impressive Pinot Noir. While it can’t boast any Grands Crus vineyards, its extraordinary Premiers Crus vineyards are aplenty.
Les Pézerolles, Les Épenots, Clos des Épeneaux, Les Chanlins, Les Jarolières, Les Fremiers and particularly Les Rugiens are among the most outstanding Premiers Crus.
The best Pommards will be concentrated in flavors such as black cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate, have dazzling aromas of violets, menthol or wild herbs and a firm and powerful finish. They typically demand some time in the bottle to reach their peak.