Domaine Taupenot-Merme Morey Saint Denis La Riotte Premier Cru 2014
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Its color is usually a full, firm, bright ruby, carmine or intense garnet with purplish highlights. The bouquet is partly of black fruits (blackcurrant, bilberry) and partly of red, pitted fruits such as cherries. Variants include bramble, violet, licorice, and fruits conserved in liquor. When older it often evokes the "wildwood" scents of game, leather, and moss, even truffle. Sustained and structured, this wine lingers in the mouth without flinching - it has just the right balance between body and fruit. With its rounded tannins and mouth-filling generosity, it sings tenor, so to speak, in the Burgundian choir. Masculine in character, as one expects from the Cote de Nuits, full and powerful in the mouth, red Morey-Saint-Denis is most at home with meats of equally strong flavors. Its tannins are more likely to bring out the best from a game bird (such as a pheasant) than a piece of veal, for example. Feathered game, braised or roasted, will succumb smoothly to its meaty texture, and its sustained tannins will continue to make their presence felt until the last succulent, musky mouthful. The tannins, again, will bring out the full quality of a fine rib steak or a nice thick beef blade. Soft-centred cheeses will find in this wine a compatible partner.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru la Riotte from Domaine Taupenot-Merme has a finely tuned bouquet: dark cherries, bergamot and plenty of sous-bois that is all well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, supple and lithe in the mouth with a harmonious if not overly complex finish that leaves you satisfied and reaching for the next drop. This is a very more-ish Morey-Saint-Denis. One to watch. Tasted September 2017.
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Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
While Morey-St-Denis of Burgundy might not get the same attention as its neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, there is no reason why it shouldn’t. The same line of limestone runs from the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey—all the way through Morey—ending in Chambolle.
There are four grand cru vineyards, moving southwards from the border with Gevrey-Chambertin: Clos de la Roche, Clos St-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart and a small segment of Bonnes-Mares overlapping from Chambolle. Clos de la Roche is probably the finest vineyard, giving wines of true depth, body, and sturdiness for the long haul than most other vineyards.
Pinot Noir from Morey-St-Denis is known for its deep red cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit. Aromas of spice, licorice and purple flowers are present in the wines’ youth, evolving to forest and game as the wine ages.