Domaine Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny Combe d'Orveau Premier Cru 2014
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Decanter
Romain, ably assisted by his sister Virginie, is the seventh-generation winemaker of the Taupenot family. The estate, run on organic principles since 2002, is one of the most up and coming in the Côte de Nuits. Romain is very approachable and his intelligent, thoughtful approach has won much respect. He has transformed the family estate in recent years with a perfectionist approach as well as a desire to let the terroir speak in all of the wines. Oak is carefully used – usually no more than 40% new wood for premier cru, 25% for village wines. The emphasis is on purity rather than power. Jason Haynes: Evolved bouquet with fresh raspberry and orange rind, the prelude to quite a savoury wine. Interesting, attractive, a divine mouthful. William Kelley: A firm, intriguing nose which translates to a flavourful attack in the mouth. This finishes with great energy, and will certainly still pack a punch in years to come. Jasper Morris MW: What a beautifully perfumed nose! There are pure raspberry notes and generous swelling fruit across the palate. The oak is well integrated and the fruit returns again at the back. Very classy.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Combe d'Orveau from Taupenot-Merme has a more understated bouquet than Groffier's 2014 Les Haut Doix, perhaps more Morey-Saint-Denis in style, yet it is nicely focused and fresh and delivers ample mineralité. The palate is very well balanced with good substance, sappy black fruit laced with spice and a very dense but poised finish that feels primal and backwards now but will hopefully age with style. This surpasses my estimation from barrel, hence the higher score. Tasted September 2017.
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Wine Spectator
This is succulent, exhibiting currant, raspberry, vegetal and spice flavors. Fresh and complex, with dusty tannins dominating the firm, slightly chewy finish. Best from 2021 through 2035. 14 cases imported.
Other Vintages
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Jasper
Morris
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Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Chambolle-Musigny represents the charm of the Côte de Nuits district of Burgundy. But you’ll find that term mainly in reference to the vineyards in its southern stretches, which border Clos Vougeot: the Grand Cru of Le Musingy and in part, its neighboring and most exceptional Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses. Some producers argue for the primacy of Les Amoureuses and its eligibility for Grand Cru status given its wines can sometimes surpass other Grands Crus.
Le Musigny ranks on par with the most acclaimed Grands Crus for Pinot Noir: Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, Chambertin, and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. It is also the only Grand Cru in Côte de Nuits for Chardonnay. All of the others are in Côte de Beaune.
This village can in fact claim only two Grands Crus vineyards and—in the context of breaking down the minutiae—they are markedly different. Bonnes-Mares, the other one at the far northern end above the village, bordering Morey-St-Denis, offers power, strength and great aging potential. But Chambolle-Musigny includes a nice handful of exceptional Premiers Crus, as noted above with Les Amoureuses as the finest. Le Fuees and Les Cras are other noteworthy Premiers Crus.
Overall, a top Chambolle-Musigny offers pure aromas of violets, dark cherry and damp earth, coupled with a velvety elegance, supple mid-palate, an abundance of black and red berry, and finesse and power through a long and fine-grained finish.