Birichino Saint Georges Pinot Noir 2016

  • 90 Wine
    Enthusiast
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Birichino Saint Georges Pinot Noir 2016 Front Bottle Shot
Birichino Saint Georges Pinot Noir 2016 Front Bottle Shot Birichino Saint Georges Pinot Noir 2016 Front Label

Product Details


Varietal

Region

Producer

Vintage
2016

Size
750ML

ABV
13.5%

Your Rating

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Somm Note

Winemaker Notes

The 2016 St Georges derives primarily from the elegant, floral, very small-berried pinot of the decades-old Besson planting at the base of the Santa Cruz Mountains. To its register of expansive red floral notes we add the darkly fragrant Santa Cruz Mountains pinot from the steep slate, schist and sandstone site of Lilo, Arroyo Seco pinot on decomposed granite and shale, and the muscular, brooding, deeply-flavored old selections of pinot planted by the late Dick Graff from 1800’ up in the Chalone AVA at Antle Vineyard. These four sites together bring exceptionally textured depth and lifted aromatics to this dynamic Central Coast bottling. Fermentation averaged about 20% whole cluster, with a higher proportion of the Lilo and Antle lots left whole, and after several days in stainless and bins, native fermentation got going, and we put a preliminary blend down to cement tank and neutral barrel in October. We racked just once when final barrel selections were made, prior to bottling unfiltered in July of 2017.

Professional Ratings

  • 90
    Very light in the glass, this bottling from an old vineyard shows candied pomegranate, sage and thyme on the delicate nose. There is solid grip to the sip, with tangy cranberry and a pinch of white pepper. It is a great red wine for a sunny day.

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Birichino

Birichino

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Birichino, California
Alex Krause and John Locke founded Birichino in Santa Cruz in 2008. Drawing on a combined four decades making wine in California, France, Italy, and beyond, they are focused on attaining the perfect balance of perfume, poise, and puckishness. Sourcing from a number of carefully farmed, family-owned, own-rooted 19th and early 20th century vineyards (and a few from the late disco era) planted by and large in more moderate, marine-influenced climates, their preoccupation is to safeguard the quality and vibrance of their raw materials. Their preference is for minimal intervention, most often favoring native fermentations, employing stainless or neutral barrels, minimal racking and fining, and avoiding filtration altogether when possible. But most critically, their aim is to make delicious wines that give pleasure, revitalize, and revive. About the name- Birichino- biri-kino. Like locksmiths in the United States that add additional AAAs onto their names to be the first listed in the telephone directory, and drawing on deep reserves of innate marketing genius, we went in search of something unpronounceable to English speakers, yet also difficult to remember that began with A or B. Alluce was an early favorite, seeming to evoke lightness and air in English, but in fact translating as big toe. Seeking something with that playfulness, though about some things we profess to be deadly serious, and inspired by the surprising, slighty racy character of our first wine, the Malvasia Bianca that leads one on to thinking sweet, and delivers something else entirely, we hit on Birichino, meaning naughty in Italian. And who doesn't consider themselves just a little bit naughty, after all?
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Let’s start with the obvious – Central Coast Pinot Noir is an incredibly broad category. This of course is because the Central Coast appellation is enormous, and it contains several stellar Pinot Noir regions within it, all of them kept cool by elevation or proximity to the ocean (or both). So we’ll break things down a bit with a brief look at each of these: Santa Cruz Mountains, Monterey and the Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Maria Valley and Sta. Rita Hills. These are not the only Central Coast sources of good Pinot Noir, but they are the major ones. So let’s get started.

In the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, just west of Silicon Valley, producers craft excellent Pinot in spite of serious challenges. The land is mountainous, rugged and can be foggy, the topsoil is thin and poor and yields tend to be low. Yet Pinots from the likes of David Bruce, Martin Ray, Mount Eden and Thomas Fogarty exhibit undeniable quality, along with bright red fruit, minerality, earth and herbal hints.

Just south lies the large Monterey appellation. Monterey Pinot Noir is grown in coastal areas, taking optimal advantage of the cooling effect of the Pacific. The most highly regarded of these is the Santa Lucia Highlands. Situated on hilly benchlands south of the city of Monterey, this central coast region relies on a long growing season, night and morning fog and consistent afternoon winds to produce world class Pinot Noir. Attributes include intense, rich fruit, subtle earthy notes, spice and a silky texture. Look for producers like Siduri, Kosta Browne, Talbott and Lucienne.

The Santa Maria Valley in northern Santa Barbara County (a section of it falls into southern San Luis Obispo County) is also a haven for quality Pinot Noir. A mere 15 miles from the Pacific, the valley runs east-west, creating a natural tunnel through which ocean breezes and fog flow. This effect lengthens the growing season and promotes both ripeness and development of acidity, lending Santa Maria Valley Pinots their characteristic full flavor, balance and elegance. The famous Bien Nacido Vineyard is located here, and notable producers include Cambria, Foxen, Byron and Au Bon Climat.

Finally, we arrive at the Sta. Rita Hills, also in Santa Barbara County. Located in the western part of the Santa Ynez Valley, it too benefits from an east-west orientation that leads to the same conditions mentioned above. Once again the result is extended hang time for the grapes, which can be tasted in the vibrant, ripe red fruits evident in these Pinots, along with dense coloration and an impression of richness and intensity. Try wines from producers like Ken Brown, Ampelos, Fess Parker and Melville.

As you can see, California’s Central Coast offers a wealth of options for any lover of Pinot Noir. Cheers!

BIR89917500203_2016 Item# 505691

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