Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012
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Wine Spectator
This delivers intense balsamic notes of juniper, wild rosemary and sage, along with rose, cherry and berry aromas and flavors. Elegant and saturated with flavor, supported by a vibrant structure. Ends with energy and refined tannins. Best from 2022 through 2040.
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James Suckling
Plenty of dark cherry essence, blackberry pie, a touch of plum liqueur, baking spices, charcuterie, resin and dried herbs. The palate echoes the richness of the nose with no shortage of dried-fruit flavors, while also embracing tightly wound tannins and a streak of refreshing acidity. Drink in 2020.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Sporting a medium dark color, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the most robust and powerful wine among these new releases from Altesino. More than its Riserva status (that requires an extra year of aging compared to base Brunello), that richness is a result of the dry and hot 2012 growing season. You really feel the tightness, blackness and the alcohol of the fruit here. By the way, the alcohol is 15%, so it is indeed high for Sangiovese. There is a note of cherry sweetness on the close. Thankfully, there is also enough natural acidity to bring the wine back to center and balance. But the overall complexity is diminished in favor of muscle and brawn.
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Wine Enthusiast
Forest floor, pipe tobacco, leather and eucalyptus aromas abound on this full-bodied red. The taut firmly structured palate offers dried black cherry, raspberry preserve, licorice and dried herb set against tightly packed fine-grained tannins. You'll also detect the warmth of alcohol on the close. Drink from 2022.
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Wine & Spirits
This riserva opens with exuberant cherry flavors and lively acidity elevated by scents of rose petals and cool herbs. Notes of dark chocolate and fresh tobacco emerge as the wine sits in the glass, building layers of complexity until a wall of tannins descends. Give this at least five years in the cellar before revisiting.
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Near the end of 2002, Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, owner of nearby Tenuta Caparzo, purchased the Altesino winery. Today's winemaking team, led by Simone Giunti and Alessandro Ciacci, is firmly committed to maintaining Altesino’s hard-earned reputation as a Montalcino institution and a global leader in innovative winemaking. Amid the eastern hills of Montalcino near Siena in central Tuscany, stands the magnificently elegant 14th century-built Palazzo Altesi, home to the Altesino winery and a marvelous resort. The ancient coat of arms, carved in white Carrara marble, is still visible above the antique oak portal. The stunning Palazzo Altesi beautifully reflects Altesino’s charm and refinement. Though the worldwide reputation of Brunello has encouraged some conservatism among Montalcino estates, Altesino has always been a leader, unafraid of innovation. The estate pioneered the technique of aging its IGT wines in small French oak barrels, limiting the time spent in oak to enhance each wine’s personality. The resulting wines were a groundbreaking improvement over those produced by traditional methods. No longer overwhelmed by wood, they were able to display the unique characteristics of the fruit, with softened tannins and perfect balance. Not content to rest on its laurels, Altesino became the first Montalcino estate to introduce the concept of cru wines, made with a special selection of grapes from a single vineyard. Its Montosoli Brunello, named after the prestigious vineyard, was the first of these wines and is still considered among the regions finest. Altesino also pioneered the concept of Brunello futures (wine purchased before its release) with its 1985 vintage. This commitment to innovation led to many modern wines in the estates portfolio, including Alte d’Altesi, Palazzo Altesi and Rosso di Altesino. Elegance, finesse, and a fruitier, richer style are the trademarks of Altesino’s wines and have earned the estate a position among the very top producers of Brunello. This achievement is even more impressive considering Brunello is perhaps the most recognized Italian appellation.
Among Italy's elite red grape varieties, Sangiovese has the perfect intersection of bright red fruit and savory earthiness and is responsible for the best red wines of Tuscany. While it is best known as the chief component of Chianti, it is also the main grape in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and reaches the height of its power and intensity in the complex, long-lived Brunello di Montalcino. Somm Secret—Sangiovese doubles under the alias, Nielluccio, on the French island of Corsica where it produces distinctly floral and refreshing reds and rosés.
Famous for its bold, layered and long-lived red, Brunello di Montalcino, the town of Montalcino is about 70 miles south of Florence, and has a warmer and drier climate than that of its neighbor, Chianti. The Sangiovese grape is king here, as it is in Chianti, but Montalcino has its own clone called Brunello.
The Brunello vineyards of Montalcino blanket the rolling hills surrounding the village and fan out at various elevations, creating the potential for Brunello wines expressing different styles. From the valleys, where deeper deposits of clay are found, come wines typically bolder, more concentrated and rich in opulent black fruit. The hillside vineyards produce wines more concentrated in red fruits and floral aromas; these sites reach up to over 1,600 feet and have shallow soils of rocks and shale.
Brunello di Montalcino by law must be aged a minimum of four years, including two years in barrel before realease and once released, typically needs more time in bottle for its drinking potential to be fully reached. The good news is that Montalcino makes a “baby brother” version. The wines called Rosso di Montalcino are often made from younger vines, aged for about a year before release, offer extraordinary values and are ready to drink young.