Bodegas Muga Torre Muga 2010
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The nose is attractive, with rather fresher fruitiness than we are used to finding. The balance, almost to the millimetre, between red berry fruit and spiciness from the oak, but still not fully integrated. The aromas display marked dimorphism: on the one hand, the fruit is complex, hard to define, and on the other we have the very sharply defined spices: black pepper, cloves, vanilla and a touch of charcoal minerality. The retronasal phase sees the spices, a little drier, gaining in predominance, but more elegant and much richer in subtle nuances. The fruit only comes back after a few seconds in the aftertaste where we again find red berries and something similar to ripe peaches and plums.
On the eye, it reveals more red than purplish hues in the meniscus and displays excellent acidity, boding well for a highly promising future.The wine closely reflects the growing conditions of the vintage and so appears balanced, full- and smooth-bodied, surprisingly pleasant and "well-behaved" on the palate given that it is still only three years' old and comes from a zone which normally needs more bottle time. That said, we can make allowances for a few small sharp edges in the middle palate which will soon be polished.
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2010 Torre Muga, was one of the first new-wave Riojas and it has already demonstrated that it ages in a classical style (first vintage was 1991), but winemaking has gained much in precision since that first vintage, the different varieties are picked and fermented separately and you can feel a much more compact and balanced wine in recent vintages, with more subtle and better integrated oak. It is sourced from the oldest family vineyards blending 70% Tempranillo, 20% Graciano and 10% Mazuelo, picked and fermented separately in 2,000- and 8,000-liter oak vats, blended after malolactic and aged in new French oak barrels for 16 months. It’s quite dark, opaque and surprisingly aromatic (because I expected it to be closed and hard as nails) with notes of flowers, ripe fruit and some lactic, smoky and spicy tones from the French barrels. It’s a structured wine, with slightly dusty tannins, pungent and clean acidity, great balance, combining power and elegance. 40,000 bottles produced. It’s still a baby that will require a couple of years to show its true face and will age into a beautiful Rioja. Drink 2016-2030.
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Wine Spectator
The inky color and muscular structure are atypical, but this red shows impressive concentration, with savory flavors of tar, tobacco and mineral that frame a core of cassis and loamy earth. Austere and dense. Decant. Best from 2016 through 2026.
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Bodegas Muga is a family firm founded in 1932 by Isaac Muga and Aurora Caño. The first wines were made in an underground cellar, until in 1968 they decided to set up their own winery in a beautiful old 19th-century town-house situated in the city of Haro. The Bodegas Muga outstanding feature is that it always uses the finest materials, combining tradition with the latest advances in winemaking so as always to give its wines the very best quality without losing authenticity. Indeed, it is the only wine cellar in Spain which employs its own master cooper and coopers, who make all the vats for the cellar as well as the oak casks. The winery remains true to traditional winemaking methods such as racking the casks by gravity and fining the wine with fresh egg whites. Bodegas Muga has succeeded in combining the purest family tradition with an updated vision of the future which has allowed them to preserve their own personality and character.
Hailed as the star red variety in Spain’s most celebrated wine region, Tempranillo from Rioja, or simply labeled, “Rioja,” produces elegant wines with complex notes of red and black fruit, crushed rock, leather, toast and tobacco, whose best examples are fully capable of decades of improvement in the cellar.
Rioja wines are typically a blend of fruit from its three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental, although specific sub-region (zonas), village (municipios) and vineyard (viñedo singular) wines can now be labeled. Rioja Alta and Alavesa, at the highest elevations, are considered to be the source of the brightest, most elegant fruit, while grapes from the warmer and drier, Rioja Oriental, produce wines with deep color, great body and richness.