Domaine de l'Hortus Pic Saint Loup 2007
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Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The l’Hortus red 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup Bergerie Classique is – as usual for this cuvee – around 2:1 tank vinified Syrah-Grenache, with roughly 10% barrel-aged Mourvedre. Beautifully scented with ripe black fruits, marjoram, and rosemary, this offers an invigorating sense of attack and a refreshing palate of tart fresh black raspberry and cassis, underlain by grilled meats. There is a lovely, muscular leanness here, and this should perform admirably at table for several years. My notes refer to the first and smaller of two bottlings, but the unassembled components intended for the later bottling promised a result at least as impressive. For a similarly laudatory review of the 2006 Bergerie rouge, see issue 178.
Starting with 5 hectares and acquiring another 50 soon after, Jean Orliac named his property "l’Hortus", the Latin translation for "The Garden", as an homage to the land and its tradition. Early on, his grapes were transported to the local Cave Cooperative for pressing; in 1990 his cellars were built which allowed him to vinify and bottle on his own property.
With bold fruit flavors and accents of sweet spice, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre form the base of the classic Rhône Red Blend, while Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise often come in to play. Though they originated from France’s southern Rhône Valley, with some creative interpretation, Rhône blends have also become popular in other countries. Somm Secret—Putting their own local spin on the Rhône Red Blend, those from Priorat often include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In California, it is not uncommon to see Petite Sirah make an appearance.
An extensive appellation producing a diverse selection of good quality and great values, Languedoc spans the Mediterranean coast from the Pyrenees mountains of Roussillon all the way to the Rhône Valley. Languedoc’s terrain is generally flat coastal plains, with a warm Mediterranean climate and frequent risk of drought.
Virtually every style of wine is made in this expansive region. Most dry wines are blends with varietal choice strongly influenced by the neighboring Rhône Valley. For reds and rosés, the primary grapes include Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. White varieties include Grenache Blanc, Muscat, Ugni Blanc, Vermentino, Macabéo, Clairette, Piquepoul and Bourbelenc.
International varieties are also planted in large numbers here, in particular Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The key region for sparkling wines here is Limoux, where Blanquette de Limoux is believed to have been the first sparkling wine made in France, even before Champagne. Crémant de Limoux is produced in a more modern style.