We drink a lot of champagne, and we've tried a lot of different kinds, but we always come back to Piper Heidsieck, the basic brut. To us it is the platonic champagne, the benchmark, against which we describe all others; they are all lighter, crisper, darker, fuller. Maybe it's because we've been drinking and enjoying PH's basic brut for over 30 years now. It has a full bubble and a rich, nutty flavor, with little or no acid. It's not in an austere style, and lacks some of the more exotic flavors that pop up in some artisanal bubblies. It isn't Krug or La Grande Dame or a 1988 Acacia, but it is a magnificent champagne whether for a celebration or every day drinking.

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