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Kevin Cowan
 
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Last updated: 11/2/2010
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Other Whites
a wine list by Kevin Cowan

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"Delhommeau and his importer have conspired to lower the U.S. retail prices on his wines, which in view of the quality offered by his single-vineyard, old vines 2008 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Cuvee Harmonie is frankly a bit daft, as this would represent a sensational value even at last year's price! The nose of lime, chalk, and sea air will pique your appetite and set you salivating even before it hits the palate – or rather, I am inclined to say, before you hit the surface of its seemingly bottomless pool of saline, citric refreshment. The amalgam of fresh lime, grapefruit, rhubarb, salt, citrus pips, and iodine on the palate puts me a bit in mind of certain Gruner Veltliner, but the combination of sheer intensity with alcoholic lightness and this wine's juicy, effortless elegance, as well as the sheer mineral vocabulary required in an attempt to capture its finish are archetypal Muscadet. Relish this anytime over the next 2-3 years. "91 PointsThe Wine Advocate
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The 2011 vintage is available for: $19.99
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"Ripe and intense, this Santorini requires patience. Searing acidity drives the juicy pear flavor hard into the tongue, but with air, it turns toward chalky minerality, with breadth and richness to balance the acidity. Pair it with a thick halibut steak, or put it away for five to 10 years; it has the stuffing to age well."92 PointsWine
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The 2010 vintage is available for: $15.99
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"As far as value-priced Ruedas go, this is at the top of the heap. The nose is forward, clean as glass and not too pungent or demanding. Solid as can be across the tongue, with green fruit flavors that shine and don’t force the issue. Crystalline and pure from start to finish."90 PointsWine Enthusiast
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Price: $20.00
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"Few winemakers in California understand acidity better than Randall Grahm, and he provides plenty of it in this brilliantly clean, bone-dry wine. It cleanses the mouth with scoury flavors of lychee, lime, nectarine, minerals and peppery nasturtium, with a foresty, resinous quality suggesting pine cone."91 PointsWine Enthusiast
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The 2011 vintage is available for: $10.99
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"Best Buy A burst of lychee and pear, aromatic, perfumed with rose petals, lush and forward. The alcohol is 12%, the residual sugar is 1.7%; with plenty of acid under it. The mix of flower and fruit is perfect, substantial, and beautifully balanced."91 PointsWine Enthusiast
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Price: $23.99
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