Sine Qua Non Pearl Clutcher Chardonnay 2012
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Parker
Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The just bottled 2012 Chardonnay Pearl Clutcher is off the charts and up there with some of Manfred’s top whites. Coming from incredibly low yields and made from 100% Bien Nacido Chardonnay (from a variety of clones, and the first time this estate has released a 100% Chardonnay), it was aged 19 months in 92% new French oak barrels. It offers a kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors, with notions of ripe orchard and caramelized fruits, lemon curd, fresh baked bread and hints of toast soaring from the glass. Deep, concentrated and decadent, it has full-bodied richness, fabulous concentration and a massive texture that never seems heavy or cumbersome.
Sine Qua Non has its own winemaking facility in Ventura, California not far from the Santa Barbara vineyards where the fruit is sourced from. In the last few years Manfred and his wife, Elaine, have begun creating their own vineyards dedicated to Rhone varietals. Their winemaking philosophy is to work in very small batches, gravity flow, natural yeasts (unless a fermentation problem is anticipated), long lees aging for the whites and repeated racking for the reds to open them up. This is a modified explanation of a very dedicated and artistic approach to winemaking. The wines are simultaneously very rich and elegant, superbly balanced and thoroughly harmonious with food, never overwhelming.
California’s most praised white wine, Chardonnay is also the state’s most planted white grape variety. Diverse terrain and microclimates allow for an incredible range of wine styles.
Chardonnay planted in the cooler, coastal zones takes on bright characteristics like lemon zest, key lime, green apple and wet flint. For this style, look to the chilly Sonoma Coast, Carneros, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Lucia Highlands and Edna Valley.
The inland zones of California’s coast, such as the Russian River, Sonoma, Napa and Livermore Valleys maintain a more Goldilocks-esque climate where both styles go. Early picking retains acidity and creates a leaner style but leaving the grapes to hang creates an approachable Chardonnay, balancing richness and finesse.
Chardonnay also plays a major part in the sparkling wine production of the Anderson Valley and Carneros.