"The 2004 Muscat might seem misnamed, when one learns it is 40% Sauvignon Blanc (with another 40% Gelber Muskateller and 20% Ottonel). But there is a loophole, because an old, still officially accepted name in Austria for Sauvignon is "Gruner Muskateller." The aromas of grapefruit, yellow plum, apricot, mint and black pepper simply soar from a glass of this wine, so hold on to your hat. The palate is perfectly judged in its balancing of an unusual degree of gloss and creaminess for a Sauvignon with vivacious acids, with the overall effect managing to be both enveloping and invigorating. This excellent value wine fills your mouth with flowers, resinous herbs, citrus and pit fruits, and the finish is at once gloriously juicy, endlessly refreshing, and positively sizzling with citrus zest, concentrated pit fruit and pungent herbal notes."