Paul Hobbs Katherine Lindsay Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006
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Wine Enthusiast
Readers looking for wines packed with flavor as well as personality can do no better than uber-consultant Paul Hobbs’ line-up of Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, and Syrahs. All of his bottled wines showed even stronger than they did from barrel tastings. All of these Chardonnays spend between 10 and 16 months in barrel, with the percentage of new oak ranging from 80% (for the Cuvee Agustina), 70% (for the Walker Station), and 55-65% for the Ritchie, Ulises Valdez, and Richard Dinner cuvees. The 2008 Chardonnays, while very good, are not up to the level of the flawless 2007s. The 2008 Pinot Noirs performed well, although they are slightly lower-keyed wines without the structure and density of the 2007s. Paul Hobbs produces Syrah from the Kick Ranch Vineyard, which is in the so-called Petaluma Wind Gap (lots of wind and a cool coastal temperature). Rating: 90-93.
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Wine Spectator
Tasty red plum and black cherry fruit is supple, elegant and delicate. Well-focused and persistent, with a spicy floral edge. Finishes with a light smoky oak nuance. Drink now through 2012.
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Connoisseurs'
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While the Russian River Valley is a large appellation with multiple climate zones and soil types, it is best known for cool-climate varieties, with Pinot Noir as the most celebrated. The grapes benefit from a reliable late afternoon flow of Pacific Ocean fog through the Petaluma Gap and along the Russian River Valley that ensures slow and steady ripening and the preservation of grape acidity. Today many of California’s most highly regarded Pinot Noir vineyards are in the Russian River Valley, along with its sub-appellation, Green Valley.
Historically Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs had bright red fruit and delicate earthy, mineral notes. But changes in viticultural and winemaking practices have led to stylistic changes in some of the region’s wines. Adjustments to canopy management, among other techniques, have resulted in riper fruit and bolder wines as well. These show flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cola, spice and darker, loamy earth tones, accenting traditional Pinot Noir notes of strawberry, raspberry and light cherry.