Monchiero Carbone Pelisa Barbera 2013
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Red berry, rose, tilled soil and a whiff of baking spice aromas almost jump out of the glass. The lively palate doles out juicy black cherry, raspberry, clove and orange zest alongside vibrant acidity and supple tannins that give this wine a smooth mouthfeel.
Located in Canale, in the heart of the Roero DOCG in Langhe, the Monchiero Carbone winery was established in 1990 with the goal of reuniting vineyards owned by two branches of a family (Monchiero and Carbone) with winemaking tradition dating back to 1918. Today it is owned and operated by husband and wife, Francesco and Lucrezia Monchiero, who specialize in creating Arneis from the best vineyards in the Roero zone. On the label, as a constant reminder of their family’s history in the area and the traditions they seek to uphold, the Monchieros have added the phrase (from local dialect) “Ogni uss a l’ha so tanbuss” – “Every door has its knocker.” The inspiration behind the Monchiero Carbone winery can be traced back to the generations of both families who earned their livelihood as vine-growers. On the Monchiero side, maternal grandmother, Clotilde Valente, used her wedding dowry to purchase the Monbirone vineyard, dedicating her life to harvesting its vines. In the early 1900s, Enrico Carbone (nicknamed Ricù) married Lucia Gioetti, the beautiful daughter of a wealthy tenant farmer. Known as “the blonde”, Lucia brought with her a dowry that was also used to purchase land. Ricù immediately planted a vineyard of Arneis on the plot acquired on Tanon hill (Tanùn in the local dialect), and began to produce a sweet white wine often served on celebratory occasions. While they are not the only events leading to the creation of Monchiero Carbone, they are the most significant turning points in the family history.
All Monchiero Carbone vineyards are located within the Roero zone. The village of Canale in Roero is located to the North and west of Barolo and Barbaresco, land separated by the Tanaro River. Two historical vineyards which comprise the foundation of the Monchiero Carbone estate are located within the Canale area: Monbirone - with its hard and limey almost chalky soil, where mere drops of water cause the ground to become as slippery as soap, and Tanon - the light, dry, sandy soil, which seems almost specifically designed to showcase the fragrance and appeal of Arneis, is as warm and friendly as the Carbone family itself. Recently added to the estate are young vineyards in the Priocca area, located closer to the Tanaro River. On this gently sloping hill, surrounded with wild chamomile, are young vineyards with sandy soils that are rich with magnesium, resulting in fruit driven wines with firm minerality.
Together, Francesco and Lucrezia demonstrate a dynamic, energetic approach to winemaking, often hailed as a breath of fresh air amid more traditional producers of the region. All wines are estate bottled in an effort to raise awareness of the quality of small volume production and diversity capable of stirring a drinker’s emotions. Their philosophy is to respect the origins of the land, cherishing its well-being to provide their vines with the correct natural nourishment, ultimately allowing them to yield just the right amount of well-concentrated fruit. While Arneis is the hallmark of the Monchiero Carbone winery, high quality Barbera and Nebbiolo are produced here as well.
Friendly and approachable, Barbera produces wines in a wide range of styles, from youthful, fresh and fruity to serious, structured and age-worthy. Piedmont is the most famous source of Barbera; those from Asti and Alba garner the most praise. Barbera actually can adapt to many climates and enjoys success in some New World regions. Somm Secret—In the past it wasn’t common or even accepted to age Barbera in oak but today both styles—oaked and unoaked—abound and in fact most Piedmontese producers today produce both styles.
An historic village situated right in between the famous regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, Alba is also the name for the larger wine region surrounding the village.
In a sense, “Alba” is a catch-all phrase, and includes the declassified Nebbiolo wines made in Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as the Nebbiolo grown just outside of these regions’ borders. In fact, Nebbiolo d’Alba is a softer, less tannic and more fruit-forward wine ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling. It is a great place to start if you want to begin to understand the grape. Likewise, the even broader category of Langhe Nebbiolo offers approachable and value-driven options as well.
Barbera, planted alongside Nebbiolo in the surrounding hills, and referred to as Barbera d’Alba, takes on a more powerful and concentrated personality compared to its counterparts in Asti.
Dolcetto is ubiquitous here and, known as Dolcetto d'Alba, can be found casually served alongside antipasti on the tables of Alba’s cafes and wine bars.
Not surprisingly, given its location, Alba is recognized as one of Italy’s premiere culinary destinations and is the home of the fall truffle fair, which attracts visitors from worldwide every year.