Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2002
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Robert -
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International Wine Cellar
Bright, deep red. Very pure, youthful aromas of raspberry, garrigue and pungent minerals; this smells like a five-year-old Burgundy. Round and sweet in the mouth, showing excellent volume for the vintage but also captivating tangy acidity to frame and intensify the flavors of red berries, minerals and black mushroom. Wonderfully suave, seamless wine with great class--and incredibly fresh and youthful for the vintage. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and pungent red fruits. This remarkable wine, probably the youngest 2002 I tasted this fall, still has decades of life ahead of it. 98+
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2002 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has long been one of my favorite vintages from this monopole, and at 13-years-old it shows no signs of losing that place in my heart. The bouquet is just so pure and refined, reminiscent of the 2005 in some way, albeit with not quite the same intensity. However, the detail is breathtaking - one of those bouquets that whisks you straight to its place of birth, within those ancient stone walls in Morey-Saint-Denis. The palate is brilliantly balanced, utterly refined with lace-like tannin, perfectly pitched acidity and a gentle build in the mouth towards a glorious, saline-tinged finish that hangs like the final piano chord in an empty hall. Wondrous - perhaps the high point of Pitiot's tenure?
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Wine Spectator
A big red, round and sappy, exhibiting black cherry, kirsch and sweet spice aromas and flavors. Picks up some chocolate and smoke midpalate, with the richness and exuberant fruit of the vintage. Fine length; needs time to absorb the oak and tannins.
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In 1865, Jean-Marie Mommessin founded the wine making firm that bears his name in Burgundy, an area known as a cradle of viticulture just north of Lyon. In 1889, Mommessin acquired La Grange Saint-Pierre, ancient stone buildings in Macon that originally belonged to the Abbey of Cluny. Its key, the Key of St. Peter, became the famous house emblem and remains so still.
Today, the 5th generation of the Mommessin family produces and bottles wines with an abiding respect for each wine's unique character - ever careful to produce results that are "true to their type," and therefore perfect examples of their appellation.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
The most acclaimed region of Burgundy, the Côte d’Or is defined by a long, limestone escarpment beneath the ground's surface and is home to all of Burgundy’s most famous wines. While Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are produced throughout the Côte d’Or, the north tends to excel at Pinot Noir and the south, at Chardonnay.
The northern half of the Côte d’Or is called the Côte de Nuits. Here reside most of the Pinot noir Grands Crus vineyards of Burgundy—the only one farther south, in Côte de Beaune, is Aloxe-Corton.
The Côte de Beaune is the center all of the Chardonnay Grands Crus with the exception of Le Musingy, found in Chambolle-Musigny in the Côte de Nuits, which produces both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with Grand Cru status.