J.J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2009
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Wine Spectator
Vivid and pure-tasting, with a well-structured array of mineral, peach, citrus and savory spice notes that are tightly wound. Still, this is quite airy, especially on the impeccable finish of lime and nectarine. Best from 2015 through 2038.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The Prum 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese mingles spiced apple, papaya, pink grapefruit, cassis, and white raisin in a lush, creamily-textured, pungently botrytis-tinged performance full-throated from nose through peacock's finishing flourish, and hard to beat for sheer diversity and audacity of fruit. If you're looking for nuance of for characteristics that might be described as in any sense "mineral," then perhaps in a dozen years you'll find them here, otherwise search elsewhere. But in reality this is a wine that deserves a long time in the cellar and is apt to retain and add to its present virtues over a 30 year period.
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Wine & Spirits
The rich, ripe flavors of apricot, mango and orange are bound together by minerality and acidity, feeling confident and tightly controlled. This already shows a subtly nuanced complexity on the palate, finishing with detailed, slate-infused aromas and fragrant length.
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Wine Enthusiast
Soft and relatively open in style, with captivating aromas of wet mossy stones and ripe melon and hints of pear and lychee on the palate. Very approachable now for a young Prüm.
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Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
Following the Mosel River as it slithers and weaves dramatically through the Eifel Mountains in Germany’s far west, the Mosel wine region is considered by many as the source of the world’s finest and longest-lived Rieslings.
Mosel’s unique and unsurpassed combination of geography, geology and climate all combine together to make this true. Many of the Mosel’s best vineyard sites are on the steep south or southwest facing slopes, where vines receive up to ten times more sunlight, a very desirable condition in this cold climate region. Given how many twists and turns the Mosel River makes, it is not had to find a vineyard with this exposure. In fact, the Mosel’s breathtakingly steep slopes of rocky, slate-based soils straddle the riverbanks along its entire length. These rocky slate soils, as well as the river, retain and reflect heat back to the vineyards, a phenomenon that aids in the complete ripening of its grapes.
Riesling is by far the most important and prestigious grape of the Mosel, grown on approximately 60% of the region’s vineyard land—typically on the desirable sites that provide the best combination of sunlight, soil type and altitude. The best Mosel Rieslings—dry or sweet—express marked acidity, low alcohol, great purity and intensity with aromas and flavors of wet slate, citrus and stone fruit. With age, the wine’s color will become more golden and pleasing aromas of honey, dried apricot and sometimes petrol develop.
Other varieties planted in the Mosel include Müller-Thurgau, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), all performing quite well here.