Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli 2004
Sangiovese from Tuscany, Italy
Produced only in the best years and in limited quantities, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 Vigna Paganelli is made exclusively with Sangiovese grapes sourced from the eponymous vineyard, planted in 1964. An austere, "classic" and aristocratic Brunello, it is a wine that honors the blazon and the image of the wine symbol of Montalcino.
The wine shows a dense ruby red color with garnet hues. Aromatically, there are rich warm tones of red fruit, spices, liquoirice, while on the palate this thoroughbred of a wine, displays a flavorful weave of silky tannins that are greeted with the freshness and structure that is typical of a great vintage. With a very long and overwhelming finish, it is a wine that will further evolve in the years to come.
Vinous / Antonio Galloni - "The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli emerges from the glass with masses of scorched earth, leather, tar, licorice, menthol and dark fruit. The Riserva shows a touch more inner sweetness, richness and depth in its fruit than the regular bottling, plus a bit more French oak as well. For now, the Riserva is quite reticent and requires air, but with time its awesome richness and power come through in spades. This dark, brooding and authoritative Riserva from Il Poggione is simply gorgeous. Readers who don't want to pay the premium for the Riserva in 2004 need not worry; I tasted the 2004 regular bottling (twice!) while preparing this article and it is every bit as promising as my review last year suggested. In 2004 the Paganelli vineyard was harvested on the 13th of October, quite late for this estate."
Wine Spectator - "Offers ripe blueberry notes, with hints of violet, lilac and sandalwood. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, fresh finish. Not a big wine, but balanced and pretty. Best after 2011. "
Wine Enthusiast - "This Brunello Riserva offers very nice intensity and smoothness in the mouth, although its aromatic bouquet is less determined. There are sweet polished tannins on the close and the wine would work with steak marinated with garlic and rosemary."
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Il Poggione Winery
Tenuta Il Poggione was founded at the end of 1800 when Lavinio Franceschi, land owner from Florence, decided to visit the area after hearing the stories from a shepherd, who brought his herds around Montalcino during the winter. He fell in love with the landscape and the people who lived in that area, and decided to buy land and establish a grape farm. More than a century later, Tenuta Il Poggione covers an area of 530 hectares (1300 acres), of which 140 hectares (336 acres) are planted with vines and 50 hectares (120 acres) with olive trees; the rest are dedicated to grain fields, forest and livestock.
The estate’s guiding principle is to pay great care to the vines, because the secret of producing great red wines lies in the high-quality vineyard work. The vineyards are at an altitude between 490 – 1475 feet above sea level: this large gap, together with the age of the vineyards, promotes easy harvest to obtain well-structured wines with long aging potential, regardless of the weather conditions. One of the most highly regarded wineries in all of Tuscany, Tenuta Il Poggione makes incredibly powerful wines for collectors and everyday drinkers alike. View all Il Poggione Wines
About TuscanyView a map of Tuscany wineries (TUSS-can-ee) Sangiovese. Most of the wine coming from Tuscany is made from some clone of this varietal, but a growing trend, started by the renegade winemakers of those Super Tuscans, is to incorporate more international varietals.
Notable FactsThe most well known sub-districts of Tuscany are Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (note that Montepulciano here refers to the local village, not the grape variety found in the Italian region of Abruzzi). Wine labeled from these regions is DOC-regulated and Sangiovese-based blends. Quality wine from these DOC areas has been on the rise for decades, with top-notch winemakers and wineries shedding the low-quality image once held for Tuscan wine by producing consistently outstanding bottlings that range from deliciously drinkable to highly ageable. Newer to the scene are regions like Bohlgeri and the Maremma, home to of what are now termed "Super-Tuscans," named for the wine coming from the Tuscany area, but not following all of the DOC or DOCG laws required in Italy. In the 1970's, some pioneer winemakers began buying land outside of Chianti and Montalcino, and planting not only Sangiovese, but also international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine they produced only fit into the lowest Italian category of "vina da tavola," but the winemakers sold the wine for high prices, creating an almost cult following, and spurning a new wine category called IGT.
A little ditty about Italy...This country has about as many wines as its had governments. With 20 different regions, hundreds of DOCs and even more indigenous varieties, the amount of wine made in Italy is mind-boggling. Most of the juice, however, remains in the country for thirsty Italians. Wine is food in Italy and its rare that a meal is consumed without a glass of vino. That said, it's not common to find many folks drinking wine without food either. In turn, it's a match, and a mighty good one at that. In fact, it's safe to say that Italian wine is a foodie wine – one that goes on the table for a myraid of meals.
For regions, the most popular are Tuscany (home of Chianti), Piedmont and the Tre-Venezie, which includes Veneto, Trentino Alto-Adige and Friuli. Other communes of note are in Southern Italy, and a few good wines are made elsewhere in the country. The islands of Sardinia and Sicily are members of the Italian winemaking community as well.
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