Giovanni Almondo Bricco delle Ciliegie Arneis 2011
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Almondo's 2011 Roero Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie covers every inch of the palate with layers of green apples, pears, white flowers and spices. The Bricco delle Ciliegie succeeds in bringing together the vibrant minerality of Arneis with the creamy, voluptuous texture for which it is so well known. One of my old standbys, the Bricco delle Ciliegie is once again outstanding.
The Roero wine-producing region, on the other bank of the Tanaro river from the famous Barolo and Barbaresco appellations, is one every wine lover should know. Arneis, an extremely useful mid-weight white wine, is grown here, as are some of the most drinkable everyday wines made from Nebbiolo. Domenico Almondo and his sons Stefano and Federico make some of the best in the region. The best Nebbiolos from the Roero have the same relationship to the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, which is to say they don't reach the same exalted heights as their more famous neighbors, but are a lot less expensive and can be drunk much earlier. Their sandier Roero soils give generous, red-fruited Nebbiolos that are drinkable on release and can age for five years or more.
Yielding a dry and subtly scented wine, Arneis is the star white grape of Piedmont. Though the grape has been local to Roero since the 1400s, it didn’t experience real popularity until the 1980s when local demand for white wine exploded. Somm Secret—A few key Roero producers are also focusing on exploring the ageability of high quality Arneis. It is only grown outside of Piedmont to a very limited extent.
Set upon a backdrop of the visually stunning Alps, the enchanting and rolling hills of Piedmont are the source of some of the country’s longest-lived and most sought-after red wines. Vineyards cover a great majority of the land area—especially in Barolo—with the most prized sites at the top hilltops or on south-facing slopes where sunlight exposure is maximized. Piedmont has a continental climate with hot, humid summers leading to cold winters and precipitation year-round. The reliable autumnal fog provides a cooling effect, especially beneficial for Nebbiolo, Piedmont’s most prestigious variety.
In fact, Nebbiolo is named exactly for the arrival of this pre-harvest fog (called “nebbia” in Italian), which prolongs cluster hang time and allows full phenolic balance and ripeness. Harvest of Nebbiolo is last among Piedmont's wine varieties, occurring sometime in October. This grape is responsible for the exalted Piedmont wines of Barbaresco and Barolo, known for their ageability, firm tannins and hallmark aromas of tar and roses. Nebbiolo wines, despite their pale hue, pack a pleasing punch of flavor and structure; the best examples can require about a decade’s wait before they become approachable. Barbaresco tends to be more elegant in style while Barolo is more powerful. Across the Tanaro River, the Roero region, and farther north, the regions of Gattinara and Ghemme, also produce excellent quality Nebbiolo.
Easy-going Barbera is the most planted grape in Piedmont, beloved for its trademark high acidity, low tannin and juicy red fruit. Dolcetto, Piedmont’s other important red grape, is usually ready within a couple of years of release.
White wines, while less ubiquitous here, should not be missed. Key Piedmont wine varieties include Arneis, Cortese, Timorasso, Erbaluce and the sweet, charming Muscat, responsible for the brilliantly recognizable, Moscato d'Asti.