Fife Old Yokayo Rancho Syrah 1998

Even when it was a baby, this wine's aromas and flavors lept out of the glass, and the complexity was, frankly, surprising. Mocha, bitter chocolate, blackberries, espresso, vanilla, black pepper, and violets, plus a Rhônelike meatiness are all swirled together here in the most captivating way. And while a real powerhouse, this syrah's fine-grade tannins are beautifully woven into the wine so that you sense them as structure, rather than taste them per se.