Heritage Du Pic St. Loup Tour de Pierres 2009
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The outstanding 2009 Pic St. Loup Tour de Pierres is composed of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre. Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by abundant aromas of blackberries, cassis, charcoal, graphite and damp earth. Medium to full-bodied with silky tannins and a long finish, this big-time overachiever should drink nicely for 4-5 years.
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Ermitage du Pic St-Loup dates back to the Middle Ages, as the former home of the bishops of Maguelone. The limestone peak or “pic” perched above the vineyards was named for the legendary Saint Thieri Loup. In 1992, the Ravaille brothers joined forces to plant a vineyard here in what has traditionally been land dominated by sheep farming and cheese production. The Ravaille family has been in the Languedoc for over a thousand years, long enough to have known Saint Loup personally. These brothers have been on a noble quest of their own to create serious wine that expresses the complexity of their terroir. The three fish on the label’s emblem therefore not only evoke the story of Saint Loup, but also their fraternal collaboration.The vineyards are located in the foothills of the Pic Saint Loup Mountain, benfitting from a south-southwest exposure at altitudes of 100-300 meters. The soil varies, but includes sand, schist, clay, and pebbles. Several different wines are produced by the family, and all are vinified in the tradition of the Languedoc. Varietals are vinified separately, and later blended depending upon the cuvee. During vinification the must benefits from long maceration in order to obtain deeply colored and concentrated wines. The domaine is owned by the Ravaille family, residents of the area for at least a thousand years.
With bold fruit flavors and accents of sweet spice, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre form the base of the classic Rhône Red Blend, while Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise often come in to play. Though they originated from France’s southern Rhône Valley, with some creative interpretation, Rhône blends have also become popular in other countries. Somm Secret—Putting their own local spin on the Rhône Red Blend, those from Priorat often include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In California, it is not uncommon to see Petite Sirah make an appearance.
Pic Saint-Loup is defined by the Pic Saint-Loup Mountain in its center as well as Montagne de l’Hortus, a long ridge of Jurassic limestone rising over 2,000 feet some 15 miles inland from the Mediterranean. Elevated from the coastal plains, Pic Saint-Loup’s 1,000 hectares of vineyards on well-drained, limestone-based soils, are blessed with cooler nights, allowing low yields and grapes to fully ripen while retaining acidity. The region supports many different grape varieties since it is spread over a number of elevations and microclimates.
Approved only for reds and rosés, Pic Saint-Loup wines aim for complex, earthy elegance, and are worth putting down for a few years. The southern French trio Grenache, Syrah and Mourvédre must constitute 90% of the red blends. Cherry, plum and berry fruit pick up spicy, herbal overtones from the surrounding garrigue, giving the wines a great balance of power and delicacy. Pic St Loup rosés, often containing a good dollop of Mourvédre, show more grip and color than many southern French pinks; the best ones can age with grace for five years or more.